Scouting the Pony Express

The history of the American West is still alive and well on this route. Two years of research, driving thousands of miles, and pre-riding a few hundred all culminated in one epic through ride. Here's hoping others will be as excited about this route as I am.
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Standing at the original stables for the Pony Express in Saint Joseph, MO.
Route Files Collection: PONY EXPRESS TRAIL
The Pony Express Bikepacking Route, created by Jan Bennett, starts in St. Joseph, Missouri and covers over 2,200 miles of non-technical, expeditionary-scale riding experience as it traces the original Pony Express mail delivery route to Sacramento, California. 75% of the route is on dirt and gravel with a few car-free bike trails to get riders through major cities.
In addition to the collection of routes provided here, Bikepacking Roots has created a 150-page guidebook, available to purchase on the Bikepacking Roots website in both electronic and print formats. The guidebook includes not only all the pertinent logistical details, but also educational chapters that detail the history of the Pony Express, including information about the stations along the route, how the route impacted native American tribes as it sped across the western half of the continent, and a bit of backstory about how the route came to be. An introductory chapter by Gregg Deal of the Pyramid Lake Paiute Tribe, a significant community in the western part of Nevada, reminds us to take a moment to consider what came before the Pony Express and westward expansion as we cross these lands.
The Pony Express route provides an opportunity to ride through truly remote lands utilizing existing networks of wide, well-graded (and sometimes wash-boarded) gravel roads, rough desert two-track, some singletrack, and a bit of hike-a-bike sprinkled with some trail finding where the old route is fading away. Though the riding may not be technical the route travels over difficult terrain, sometimes becoming completely impassable when wet. Additionally, for those looking for some added single-track along their ride, developed mountain bike trails exist in various towns and cities on the route.
Bikepacking Roots is committed to long-term stewardship of this route. In the interest of keeping the most current version of the Pony Express Bikepacking Route GPS data easily accessible to riders, we recommend that if users copy and save any of these original route files to your own Ride with GPS account or other route-sharing platforms, that you either set these copied versions to private or add a link in the Route Description of your route back to this collection with credit to Bikepacking Roots. Thanks!
If you encounter any issues or necessary updates for any of the routes in this collection, please contact us at routes@bikepackingroots.org
Why the Pony Express?
A few years ago, while looking for a way to ride across the American west on a mostly gravel route, I realized that it would be possible to do so by following the original Pony Express route. I had mapped the route for my ride and had already driven some of it when on our way to Burning Man in previous years. Then I shared the idea with a few people.
After seeing how eyes lit up and people were excited, I decided that the route deserved to be made public. That meant that I needed to dedicate quite a bit more time to scout it. I made two different drives from Dallas, Texas to scout the first half of the route all of the way to Salt Lake City, UT. Since we go to Burning Man every year and take our time to get there, I was able to scout from Salt Lake City, UT to Carson City, NV by driving or bikepacking the route as well. This only left the Carson City, NV to San Francisco, CA portion.
A lot of time went into researching the route to try and stay as close to the original National Historic trail route as possible. I realized that historical markers dotted the roads and that some original stations still stood. I began marking various points of interest along the route, including campsites and bicycle shops. This was turning into one heck of a project, but I was excited!
A week before I was supposed to start my ride my father passed away from an overdose. I almost didn't go on the ride. Then I realized that this was my opportunity to process everything and try and finally move on from the cloud that had hung over me for so long. So I set out from the original Pony Express stables in Saint Joseph, MO on my trusty Salsa Cutthroat with a bit of excitement and trepidation. But I had eaten something bad in Houston and had been fighting food poisoning for a few days already so I had to wait a little longer.
5 days later and I was finally in the clear. However, my days would be slow and short on the bike. It was at this time that I decided that with everything that had happened leading up to that point, I was going to take my time and enjoy the journey.

Kansas: It's not as flat as you have been lead to believe

The route starts by crossing the Missouri river almost immediately. From here you skirt the northern edge of the famous Flint Hills and cross over the Glacial Hills scenic byway. Eons of weather have whittled away at this landscape, making for some epic rollers. Pony Express markers dot the landscape and farmers can be seen working the fields on rolling hills for as far as the eye can see. After 162 miles you enter Nebraska, but you won't know it as there are no welcome signs on these back farm roads.
It was in these first few days of my ride that I encountered kindness and generosity that would become a hallmark of the trip. I had a local farmer pay for my breakfast at a diner without my knowledge. His wife rides bikes, and he just knew he would be in big trouble if she found out that a female cyclist was riding through town and he didn't cover her breakfast. At least that's what my waitress told me. I'm inclined to believe her.

Nebraska: Changes in Scenery nearly every day

Things don't change much when you enter Nebraska. The same friendly people drive the roads and frequent diners. It was here that I ran into my first descendant of a Pony Express rider. I spent my lunches in local diners and stayed for free in city parks. Sometimes I would opt for the comforts of an RV park and a nice shower at the end of the day. There are plenty of wildlife management areas along this stretch that make for great primitive camping, usually for free.
I finally started to feel normal after about a week of riding. I had been dodging thunderstorms in tornado alley which meant I had to stick to pavement more than I had wanted, but this also meant I wasn't being quite as hard on my body after hardly being able to digest food properly for 5 days. My days were often cut short as tornado warnings were in full effect. I opted for hotels more often than not as I knew I wouldn't get a good night's sleep with tornado sirens going off and the threat of hail looming.
One morning while eating my breakfast in one of these hotel rooms, I was watching the local weather. That's when I learned that an area I had just ridden through the previous day had been hit with 4" hail and a tornado. I considered it another reminder that I needed to take my time and enjoy the opportunity that lay ahead on this trip. Opportunity for self-reflection and a chance to reset.
This meant I could more fully document the route, making notes about resupply and available resources in various smaller towns that I may have driven straight through before. I took the opportunity to talk to locals, take in the sights, and enjoy longer lunches. I slept in and went to bed early to wake up the next day and have little to worry about except riding my bike to the next town where I would stop in a grocery store and buy food to prepare my dinners at my campsite. This aspect of bikepacking has become one of my favorites: taking the time at the end of the day to look back through pictures, reflect on all I experienced, and to decide where I want to be sure and stop along the way to my next campsite.

Colorado: All 14 miles of it

The route leaves Nebraska briefly to take a short dip into Colorado via Julesburg. I had driven this section twice already and was ready to put down some miles as I was finally feeling back to my normal self. I opted to take the paved roads that parallel the route and took advantage of a pretty strong tailwind to knock out a 120-mile day. It felt great to finally be able to stretch my legs without feeling like I was going to bonk from malnourishment.

Nebraska: Back at it but with a drastic change of scenery

Once you head back into Nebraska you will quickly realize that the scenery is changing. Dropping down off of the plateau on your way into Bridgeport gives you a sense of just how vast the days ahead will be. This is where the Rockies start to let their presence be known.
The various pioneer routes of the Oregon, California, and Mormon trails went this far north to find safe passage for covered wagons, livestock, and people while avoiding the high mountain passes that border to the north and south. Crossing the continental divide at 7,000' rather than 12,000' would prove to be a much more manageable endeavor for more months out of the year.
Rolling into Scottsbluff, Nebraska, I opted to take a short day as storms were brewing all around me. I had driven this section of the route twice already and knew that I would be climbing in elevation for a short time leaving myself exposed to the elements should things turn south. I opted to stay at an RV park on the edge of town waiting out the storm under the awning of the community room before pitching my tent. The kind lady at the desk took pity on me and offered to let me stay in the community room out of the elements and with full access to a kitchen. I couldn't have been more thrilled. Having a safe place to watch these storms roll through was just what I needed. Few things are as relaxing to me as watching spring storms, especially when I know I have a dry place to retreat!

Wyoming: Possibly one of the most under-appreciated states for exploring nature

After two weeks on the road and some time to process the passing of my father, I was looking forward to some time off the bike. Crossing into Wyoming felt really good. I had settled into a groove and was enjoying my time on the bike. There was just one problem; I missed my husband. The original plan had been to meet him in Casper, but my legs and the weather had other thoughts. He had flown into Denver and rented a car for the weekend; his work travels meant we had banked a lot of airline miles, free rental car days, and free hotel stays. So he picked me up in Torrington, WY, and we made the short drive.
We took the weekend to recharge and refuel, making the drive out to Devil's Tower National Monument. It's an awesome place. Highly suggested as a trip on its own for sure. I got back on the bike renewed and refreshed. The trip from here would begin to take me through some more remote lands where resupply would be a little more limited.
The route actually passes through some private land. I had reached out to these landowners and secured passage on the route via a signed release waiver. As I had already ridden through and scouted this section last summer, I didn't want to bother them again, so I just took the highway instead. It ended up being a great alternative, and I was happy to have ridden it as it allowed me to verify that it would work for those who might not want to bother with signing a waiver. The trail through this first piece of land can be rough and a little hard to find, making a GPS a necessity. It's a very cool experience and one I would suggest. The land is a part of the Pathfinder Ranch, a summer retreat for kids. They allow passage through the land after signing and returning a waiver. The route passes through a wildlife area and generally stays away from the ranch buildings. Coming into the backside of Independence Rock the same way the settlers came through, is a really neat experience.
Independence Rock is a geographic formation to the south-west of Casper that resembles a large lava bubble that came up from the crust of the earth but never quite burst. The pioneers would usually celebrate July 4th at this point on the route, taking a few days to rest and recuperate and let their horses and oxen feed and water in preparation for the push through to the South Pass.
The long days meant that the sun was up early and didn't settle down for bed until pretty late in the evening. Riding the route in late spring seems to be perfect as the long days aren't quite scorching yet, but you can tell they will be soon. Riding through the high desert can be deceiving. At 5-8,000' of elevation a 80°F day can sound pleasant on paper. There's just one thing to keep in mind; there is no shade.
I've ridden through Utah and Nevada in August. Sure, the weatherman says it's only 92°F out. It's easy to think those temperatures will be no problem. You would be mistaken. The extremely low humidity and high elevation can make those temperatures seem scorching. Finding shade resembles finding a unicorn. You can't quite believe it's happened, and you're sure it's a mirage!
Public lands make up much of the route from Casper, WY to Sacramento, CA. This is land that the people of the United States own. This is not private land. You can pass through without requesting permission. You can set a tent up just about anywhere. You can get lost and no one will find you. This land is vast and desolate. This land is mostly untouched, and it is stunning. The ability to see for miles gives you a unique experience; one that differs from routes like the Great Divide. If you've only experienced these lands from the highway, I would encourage you to get off the pavement and take a few dirt roads next time you pass through.

Utah: The beginning of some of the most desolate expanses of land in the lower 48

Another two weeks had passed. I had found myself stuck in Casper, WY for a few days while waiting out some pretty nasty weather. Riding in the rain doesn't generally bother me, especially if I'm already out and get caught in it. Starting a multi-day ride on dirt roads in an al- day soaking rain isn't my idea of fun though. Besides, when the owner of the RV park offers you a free night in the cabin you've been staying in as he doesn't want to see you head out in 'this weather' it's kind of hard to say no. This meant that I was a bit behind my plans for getting into Salt Lake City. Monte landed and came to Torrington, WY to pick me up. We drove the route and stopped at a few places along the way into Salt Lake City. Again, I had already scouted large portions of this section, so I knew what to expect.
We spent Memorial Day weekend in Salt Lake City, taking the opportunity to eat everything I saw, and then add on dessert. I changed out the front ring on my Cutthroat from a 34 tooth to a 32 tooth as the majority of the climbing lay between here and Sacramento, CA. I sent my husband home with some items as I wanted to travel as light as possible. Previously, the coming roads have been sandy, calling for a plus bike at a minimum. Since I wanted to try and ride the route on a Tour Divide style rig, I needed to go as light as possible.
From Salt Lake City, UT to Austin, NV is around 400 miles. There are only two towns in Utah on the route. One of these towns is so small that they have a map as you enter telling you the names and location of the property owners. The other town, Ibapah, used to have a gas station and convenience store, but it is no longer in operation. You can find water at the hand pumps by the rodeo arena. I'd suggest filling up as water from here on is scarce, if non-existent, on the route.

Nevada: Breathtaking views, over and over and over again

Once you leave Ibapah you are heading into some seriously uninhabited lands. The Pony Express route roughly splits the approximately 100 miles distance between I-80 to the north and US-50 to the south. US-50 has also been named the 'Loneliest Road in America', and for good reason. For large sections of the Pony Express route, you will be riding 50 miles from either paved road. Even if you see a town on the map, there's a pretty good chance that it's a ghost town and an even better chance that there will be zero services. It could be days before a motorized vehicle passes over the same stretch of gravel that you are riding on, not just hours.
Knowing how to be self-sufficient is the key to enjoying this ride. Without that confidence, it's pretty easy to find yourself feeling overwhelmed by the vast expanse that stretches between you and any help you might need. At the same time, it is this absolute feeling of freedom that gives this ride a special place in my heart.
While eating a second breakfast in Middlegate, Nevada, I realized I was pretty tired and not looking forward to riding the next section again. I just wanted to get into Fallon and out of the intense heat. It is best to tackle the stretch from Austin, NV to Carson City, NV when temps are low. Early morning or a late day riding are great options. This area is like a bowl that sits at 4,000' of elevation. The heat can become pretty intense. Last summer while riding it, I encountered 107°F temperatures. Unfortunately, it's mostly paved from Middlegate into Fallon as the dried lake beds are virtually unrideable by all but those on fat bikes.
I put my ego aside and decided to ask two folks for a ride into Fallon. Much to my surprise, I ended up having connections to both of them. Talk about a small world. I had ridden in Baja with the friend of one, and the mother of the other has done all of the stained glass work for some of the most memorable art pieces out at Burning Man. We ended up hanging out all afternoon in Fallon, doing laundry, stuffing our faces, and sipping a drink while waiting for my room to become available. It was another reminder to me that the world is full of amazing people; all it takes is to stick your neck out a bit and shake a hand or two.
Arriving in Carson City, NV I found myself a little melancholy. I knew that in just a few days I would be done with my adventure. I was excited to be nearing the end, but I didn't want it to end. I'm pretty sure every person who has undertaken a long bike tour or a through hike has felt the same thing. There's a certain sense of accomplishment that you gain, but that's quickly followed up with the desire to explore more.
I was generously offered a backyard to camp in once in Carson City. The only RV park was on the way out of town, and I wanted to have an opportunity to fill my belly with some food that wasn't from a greasy griddle in a diner. Don't get me wrong, diner food has its place in my heart. A very prominent place at that. It's just that when presented with the option to eat another greasy hamburger and fries or some amazing Pad Kee Mao with spring rolls, I'll always go for Thai food. Always.
I spent the evening chatting with my host and his family. It was a nice change of pace. After being alone in the wilderness, reconnecting with civilization in this way was a great transition back into society. I set out in the morning renewed and determined to make the most of my last few days on the trail.

California: The final leg and a return to civilization

The climb through the Sierra Nevada mountains marks a major transition on the route. Leaving the high desert mountains of Nevada and entering the lush, green forests around Lake Tahoe could be called a spiritual experience. It's the start of the end if you will.
I really suggest planning a short day from Carson City and exploring the area around Lake Tahoe. Maybe even take an extra day off the bike and take advantage of all of the great food options. Enjoy the beaches on the shores of Lake Tahoe, explore some of the single track in the area, or go for a hike on the many trails that surround the lake. There's plenty of camping just outside of town on the route if you don't opt for a hotel or hostel for the night.
It's easy to think it's all downhill from here. The profile map on the route says so! Plan some extra time as the route includes some single track as an alternative to riding on US-50; the only other option through the area. There are a few water crossings that could be too deep to ride depending on snowmelt and the snowpack from the previous winter. The single track can be tricky to find in some places, but the views make the searching well worth the effort.
I found that the drivers on US-50 were generally courteous to me on the bike when I did find myself on the highway. Still, it's a bit of a rude welcome back into civilization, but it's the way the Pony Express traveled, so it's the way the route will go as well.
The route into Sacramento, once you're down off of the mountains, takes you along an old rail-to-trail. The final section of this rail-to-trail still has the rail in place. There are clear signs of a path being beaten into the gravel on either side, as well as some single track cut in on the embankments off either side. If you're just itching to get gnarly, now is your chance. The rail is not active, so the opportunity is rather unique.
There's a pretty good chance that I will end the route in Sacramento. Technically it's the end of the Pony Express route. The mail would be transferred to a steamer and sent down the river to San Francisco at this point. Sometimes, if the steamer had already left port, the Pony rider would continue and deliver the mail to the ferry in Oakland. It is for this reason that I originally routed to San Francisco. Plus, finishing with a ferry ride across the bay is just so cool! However, the Bay Area is a VERY crowded place. Riding through here with a loaded bike after putting in so many miles is pretty exhausting. I ended up hip-checking a car that cut me off as they were turning right into a gas station. It was nothing serious as speeds were super slow, and I was able to scrub most of my momentum and redirect myself before impact, but it still shook me.
Old Town Sac is a pretty neat place with plenty of food options, old historic buildings, and relatively inexpensive accommodations to boot. It seems like an obvious end to the route to me!

Post-Processing the Ride: Where does it go from here?

After all of the time that I spent researching and scouting this route, I can safely say that it will forever hold a special place for me. I didn't fully appreciate how much history was still intact out on the trail until I started seeing it everywhere. The people that I met along the way helped to renew my faith in this great country and myself. I can only hope that others will be intrigued enough by this route, and all of the cool features that are on it, to tackle it themselves.
There are a few options for those who may not be able to ride the whole route in one go. The Kansas City airport is only 40 miles from St. Joseph, MO. It's a fairly easy ride, and you're on gravel nearly as soon as you exit the airport. The ride from St. Joseph, MO to Casper, WY is fairly populated. It is a great way to get your legs under you on the bike and build some confidence with your kit. There are plenty of towns along the way with full amenities, including bicycle shops, hotels, RV parks and campgrounds, and grocery stores. The ride into Scottsbluff after completing the first few hundred miles of the route is very scenic. The geographic landmarks that come into view have a way of piquing excitement about what is to come further down the route.
Casper, WY has an international airport as well. Flight options are not abundant, but it's a great place to split the ride if needed. Casper is also a pretty neat little town with some great food options and a handful of outdoor outfitters and plenty of bicycle shops. One of my favorite pizza places is in Casper as well, Racca's Pizzeria Napoletana.
Salt Lake City, UT is a major city with everything you could want for resupply on a bikepacking trip. Backcountry.com has a retail storefront where you can pick up many items that they have on the site, including bicycle parts and accessories and ultralight camping gear. An abundance of bicycle shops can be found all through town as well as REI and other outdoor outfitters. The Salt Lake airport is a hub, so finding flights should be very easy. It is also a great launching point if you're wanting to just ride the most remote section of the route. Fair warning though: skipping Wyoming would mean missing some incredible views!
Carson City in Nevada is only about a 30-minute drive from Reno, which has another International airport. There are few options for camping in Carson City, but hotels are abundant. Visiting the downtown area where the route passes through gives you access to plenty of great restaurants, including The Basil, a great little Thai place where the wait staff is rather used to touring cyclists. I had plenty of inquiries from the staff and patrons alike about where I had been and where I was headed. I enjoyed a flavorful breakfast and some stellar coffee at The Union on my way out of town the next morning as well. After so many days of backpacking meals and greasy diner food, I was craving some flavor-rich, high-quality sustenance!
Naturally, Lake Tahoe is known as a tourist mecca. Great food options and accommodations, as well as plenty of other outdoor activities, are in abundance. Down the mountains, towards Sacramento a bit, you will even find some wineries. Take some time to research some of these for bed and breakfast accommodations or wine tasting options if you require some great wine to help wind down your trip.
Finally, the San Francisco bay area has three international airports.
Finding cheap flights shouldn't be a problem. The same goes for finding bike shops that will either have bike boxes for you to be able to pack your bike up and fly home with it or be able to handle that whole aspect for you.
I have set up a Facebook group for the route so that people can coordinate on trips and provide route updates. You can find that group here: Bike the Pony Express
If anyone is interested in riding the route, please reach out to me! biketheponyexpress@gmail.com
Personal Instagram for travels: @wunderlustbybike
Bike the Pony Express Instagram page: @biketheponyexpress


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