Ruta Huasteca

Détails de l'itinéraire

**Ruta Huasteca** is a 10-14 day tour through a unique part of Mexico. The route begins at the pre-Columbian city of Teotihuacan and progresses north through the Huasteca region of Hidalgo and San Luis Potosi. With elevations ranging from 9300' to 200' (2800m to 60m), the route traverses several diverse ecosystems while passing historic sites, friendly villages, scenic vistas, natural wonders, and multiple tourist opportunities.

# **The Area**
**La Huasteca** is a region of central-eastern Mexico bound by its land, people, language, history, and culture, formed at the intercept of 7 Mexican states (Veracruz, Querétaro, Hidalgo, San Luis Potosí, Tamaulipas, Puebla, and Guanajuato). The area was historically populated by the Huastec people during the Mesoamerican period, and there is presently a small separatist movement to make La Huasteca the 32nd state of Mexico due to its unique identity and relative isolation.

**The Starting Point** at San Martin de las Piramides is close to the Mexico City airport for access with transportation apps or bus services, and it enables you to visit two UNESCO World Heritage Sites before you enter the Huasteca region, including the ancient city of Teotihuacan and the Aqueduct of Father Tembleque. Pachuca, the capital of Hidalgo, could also serve as a starting point (~1 hr by bus from Mexico City). Bus services back to CDMX are also available at mid-route towns if a looped route or shorter trip is desired (Xilitla, Tamazunchale, Ciudad de Valles), or one could return home through the Queretaro airport.

**The Finishing Point** at El Naranjo has bus service several times daily to the capital city of San Luis Potosi (~3.5 hrs by bus). SLP is a vibrant colonial city with walkable plazas, stunning architecture, beautiful churches, and an impressive art museum housed in an historic military fort. There you'll also find bike shops to help prepare for a return flight home. Xilitla, Aquismon, Tamasopo, and Ciudad de Valles also offer bus service daily to SLP.

**Weather** conditions can be quite variable, even on the same day, due to the elevation changes along this route. The dry season from November to March is the best time to ride this area, but high elevation areas can get cold at night and waterfalls may not be as impressive after long dry periods. I scouted the route at the cusp of Jan/Feb and had nighttime lows down to the 40s (7C) and daytime highs reaching mid 80s (30C), even in the mountainous areas. The wettest months generally coincide with the hottest months from April to October and should be avoided for comfortable riding.

**Food** options are numerous throughout the route, and like most bike trips in Mexico, eating is one of the highlights. You'll find homemade regional dishes at @photo[roadside comedors](15037454), fruits and vegetables at tiendas and stands, bakeries for your carb fix, and the requisite snacks and electrolyte drinks are available almost everywhere. Don't pass up the opportunity to buy a stack of fresh tortillas directly from tortillerias, and keep extra bags handy for barbacoa (BBQ meat) and pollo asado (roasted chicken) to go. Sometimes you'll even find @photo[fruit along the road](15037450) (cactus fruits, star fruit, oranges, passion fruit, bananas). I typically only carried light snacks and fruit and never had to treat water or carry more than 3 liters with me. The roadside gordita stands in La Huasteca are incredible and make a great place to rest and chat with locals. Bring small bills (<200 pesos) for food stands and tiendas.

**Coffee** is grown in the hills surrounding Xilitla, and this area serves all sorts of brew including instant, cafe de olla (a nice treat in the high country), locally grown coffee home roasted and brewed over a wood stove, and espresso shops in Xilitla. Ask around in the evening if you want to find the early coffee spot in town, even if it's the ubiquitous OXXO. With luck you'll also find hot tamales for breakfast. If you like to roast your own coffee at home, green coffee is sold by vendors in downtown Xilitla, especially during market day on Friday.

**Camping** is possible in rural areas but can be challenging due to topography, land use, or dense vegetation. Sites may look tempting in the agricultural areas but be aware that farm workers are often in the fields very early. It's generally best to find a small town and ask locals for safe places to camp. They are always willing to provide suggestions or alert you to areas you should avoid. I've been offered soccer fields, basketball courts, city parks, church lawns, and private land. The hospitality of the small towns is unmatched and will create the best memories. Consider bringing gifts from home as a non-transactional way of showing appreciation. I carried four Montana license plates to represent my home state, and they were always received with a huge smile.

**Lodging** is available in tourist areas and larger towns. We were always able to find affordable rooms through AirBnB or arriving directly at hotels, but availability may be limited on weekends and holidays. Around Mineral de Chico and Huasteca Potosina, cabins or inexpensive camping is in abundant supply, usually with breakfast included. In small towns, rooms (cuartos) are sometimes available for rent, but they are typically unmarked, and you'll have to ask around.

# **The Route**

The route as shown is not for the faint of heart, as  mountain roads often have extended climbs with grades exceeding 10%. I drew much inspiration from [this blog](https://weleaf.nl/en/cycling-in-huasteca-potosina/) by travelers Zoe and Olivier but modified their route to avoid highways and stay in the mountains as much as possible. Less-challenging terrain may exist in the lower valleys if a re-route is ever needed, although they often require riding on paved highways, or temperature and humidity can add to the challenge.  Notable side trips are marked on the map, especially in the waterfall region of Huasteca Potosina. The side trips could extend your total mileage and riding days significantly depending on how much you want to visit in this diverse and interesting area.

The riding surfaces are a mix of dirt roads (primarily), motorbike paths, pavement, and cobblestone, best approached with stout tires 2.0" and above. Suspension may be appreciated but is not necessary. Many steep roads have grooved pavement with solid traction, even when wet, but the dirt roads would be a mess in heavy rain. Bring low gears and plan for shorter mileage in the hilly regions. The numerous downhills can also be especially fast, so make sure your brakes are ready.

My maiden voyage ended just shy of 400 miles (640 km) and 40,000' (12,200 m) of climbing with just a few short diversions from this route. I pedaled for 11 days as described in the sections below, and took one rest day in Xilitla. Daily mileage ranged from 25-50 miles (40-80 km) with 1700-6000' (500-1800 m) of climbing. @photo[My bike](15037438) is an S&S coupled Salsa Fargo with drop bars, 1x12 SLX (Stupid Low Xilitla gearing, 28 X 10-51), Microshift brifter, Avid BB7 brakes, 29x2.25" Mezcals... built for the mountains from Montana to Mexico.

**@slice[Teotihuacan to Zempoala](d,0,42721.8)** - 28 miles, 1700' vertical

This stretch makes for an easy first day if you want to visit Teotihuacan in the morning and get on the road by afternoon. @poi[Teotihuacan](112434827) is the pre-Columbian city that once housed more than 100,000 people and is home to the @photo[Pyramid of the Sun](15037418) and Pyramid of the Moon, two of the largest pyramids in the Americas. If you want to save your legs for the bike, balloon rides over the pyramids are available every morning for early risers. The route out of town passes through the Pueblo Magico (magic village) of @poi[Otumba](112434826) where you can visit a burro sanctuary. Much of this area utilizes motorbike paths parallel to the railroad to avoid car traffic, but alternate routes also exist on lightly travelled pavement.

Toward the end of this stretch is another historic highlight of the trip, the @poi[Aqueduct of Father Tembleque](112434829). This massive hydraulic structure is the @photo[tallest aqueduct](15037419) in Mexico, built from 1555-1572. This is also the point you leave the state of Mexico and enter the state of Hidalgo. The route continues to Zempoala through some fun yet unconventional trails that will test your tires choices early. @poi[Zempoala](112434832) has numerous food options, especially along the highway, and few lodging choices, so inquire ahead if you plan to overnight here. Local advice was to avoid camping near the aqueduct and avoid the town of San Felipe (January 2024).

**@slice[Zempoala to Mineral del Chico](d,43144.5,110283.3)** - 43 miles, 3600' vertical

This section brings you though pleasant agricultural fields outside of Zempoala into the heart of @poi[Pachuca](112434835), the capital of Hidalgo, utilizing canal paths and city bike lanes. Pachuca is a big city with any resupply option you might need and features an historic downtown with its iconic clock tower. This area saw a large influx of miners from the Cornwall region of southern England in the 1800s, and they brought with them their technology, mining knowledge, sport (soccer), and food (pasties/pastes), which make a great portable meal. Pachuca is also considered the southern terminus of the Huasteca region.

Leaving Pachuca, you'll climb a @slice[motorbike path](d,80141.1,83700.3) into @poi[Real del Monte](112434837), a quaint mining town steeped in Cornish heritage. Here the gravestones all face England, and they even have a @poi[paste museum](112433413). The route continues onto its sister city of @poi[Mineral del Chico](112434841), which is perched high in the mountains around 7700'. Be sure to stop in the@photo[ Pueblo Magico](15037421) of @poi[Omitlan](112434838) for ice cream and snacks before the @slice[uphill climb](d,99558.3,105612.7) through the forest. Note that mileage could be removed by taking a direct route from Pachuca to Mineral del Chico if desired, but exploring my Cornish roots was part of what drew me to this area and into Real de Monte specifically (although their pasties are nothing compared to my mom's).

**@slice[Mineral del Chico to Metztitlan](d,110171.5,188786.3)** - 49 miles, 4100' vertical

This section begins with a @slice[generous downhill](d,110283.3,134433.8) from Mineral del Chico, although the first 15 miles can be deceivingly difficult because of undulating terrain. @poi[Cerro Colorado](112433416) makes a nice lunch stop, and you might even find locally brewed pulque for a little pick-me-up. Pulque is a fermented alcoholic drink made directly in agave leaves. It's delicious and milky and sweet, but best enjoyed after the ride.

Beyond Cerro Colorado you'll be treated to a fun spin through the @slice[Barranca de Metztitlan biosphere reserve](d,160020.5,183480), a vast area housing some of the best @photo[cactus diversity](15037425) in Mexico. This section has only a few short uphills, and at the terminus you'll find a ripping downhill into the @photo[Metztitlan Valley](15037426). The town of @poi[Metztitlan](112436464) is very active with options for food and affordable lodging. You might also have luck asking to camp on farmland, as we met very friendly people in this broad valley. The town also houses the Convent of Santo Reyes, an important structure in the history of Hidalgo. The miles can go fast through this section, which descends a total of 7600' vertical.

**@slice[Metztitlan to Santa Maria](d,189601.9,253947)** - 41 miles, 6000' vertical

I wouldn't normally think of a valley as a memorable part of a ride, but the @slice[Metztitlan Valley](d,185506,205949) would be a notable exception. This valley lies in an ancient lakebed which formed when a landslide dammed the mouth of the canyon, leaving behind layers of rich sediment that created this vast verdant farmland. The route stays along easy farm roads out of town but climbs Hidalgo Hwy 37 to the @poi[observation point above Tlamaxa](112433417) for a stunning view of the area. From there you descend back into the valley and ride past the quirky pueblo of Cerrito perched precariously on a rocky island. Then the real climb back into the high country begins. Above the valley floor you'll ascend a @slice[10-mile (16km), 2800' (850m) climb up to Eloxochitlán](d,205876.1,221898.1), although the ride can be broken up with a stop in the friendly town of @poi[Hualula](112433418) after 3 miles (5km). Be sure to stop by the tortilleria on the main street for a warm stack to go.

Once you reach the @photo[high country](15037433), you'll continue along a @slice[fast-rolling stretch of Hwy 37](d,221483.5,254234) through beautiful farm country with stunning vistas. The little towns of Eloxochitlan, Juarez, @photo[Itztacoyotla](15037429), and Santa Maria all offer similar services with small tiendas for snacks, and typically a small comedor serving meals. A few towns had cuartos to rent, and we were offered multiple camping options in everytown we inquired. The vertical feet of climbing is high in this section, but the steep roads are paved and have consistent grades that enable efficient riding.

**@slice[Santa Maria to Acoyotla](d,253988.2,328637)** - 47 miles, 5600' vertical

Beyond Santa Maria, the route continues to follow Hwy 37, although the primary road surface changes from pavement to dirt. Several small towns exist throughout this route, which will have small tiendas at a minimun if you need to resupply. In the second half of this section, you'll encounter a @slice[2.5 mile (4 km) section of busy highway](d,296434,300123.2) just before @poi[Chilijapa](112433892), although it's all downhill and goes fast. Chilijapa offers a few larger stores and street food.

Past Chilijapa, you'll exit the highway and continue back onto quiet roads, which begin as pavement and transition to dirt. A couple of short climbs exist, although this portion primarily rolls downhill along a high volcanic ridge. You'll pass a few small villages, but @poi[Acoyotla](112433895) provides more complete services. A quaint @poi[comedor](112433894) exists as you enter town, and several tiendas are within town itself. We were offered camping at several locations but tracked down a comfortable room for the night. Ask for Rinaldo. This section has its share of climbs, but the downhill portion is more than 8,700' vertical which helps the miles go fast.

**@slice[Acoyotla to Matlapa](d,328546.9,368616.6)** - 25 miles, 2200' vertical

Following some tough days in the mountains, this stretch offers a shorter section that enables you to rest your legs or catch up on city chores. After Acoyotoa @slice[the route continues downhill](d,330283.7,346998.5) toward the river valley passing a couple small towns and even an interesting @poi[spring box](112436470) to refill water. I've noticed @photo[springs](15037437) in these volcanic rocks often taste a bit salty, so be sure to take advantage of this source of natural electrolytes. At the town of @poi[Xalcuatla](112433901) you say goodbye to Hidalgo and enter the state of San Luis Potosi. You'll then cross the Amajac River and climb a short ridge into @poi[Tamazunchale](112433898). Often called Thomas-and-Charley, this small city is a busy hub that sits at the crossroads of a couple highways. You'll find numerous options for food, lodging, and other services.

Outside of Tamazunchale, the route climbs yet @slice[another couple of ridges](d,356140.6,365673.7) before dropping into @poi[Matlapa](112433899). The elevation here is noticably lower and fruit trees dominate much of the landscape. A few side distractions also exist along this section, including waterfalls, a small archeological site, and even @poi[craftsmen of miniature guitars](112433900), so save space on your bike rack. The route avoids Highway 85 as much as possible, but it brings you into Matlapa which has affordable services for a weary traveler.

**@slice[Matlapa to Xilitla](d,368616.6,401947.2)** - 21 miles, 3700' vertical

Leaving Matlapa you'll be treated to beautiful roads through ranches and agricultural land, including miles of @photo[citrus](15037441) trees. The following section is short but tough, with a @slice[7-mile (13km) climb out of the river valley](d,382501.2,393740.8) back into the mountains. Here you'll enter the coffee farms which continue north of Xilitla, which will appear on a ridge through the vistas as you approach town. After an exciting descent you'll have one more climb up to @photo[Xilitla](15037442).

@poi[Xilitla](112436474) is a vibrant tourist town worth enjoying for a short break. Lodging ranges anywhere from affordable cabins and hostels, to posh tourist hotels. I recommend anything with a terrace to take in the view. If time allows, be sure to visit @poi[Las Pozas](112433902), a @photo[surreal garden](15037445) built by the eccentric Englishman Edward James. Tours are available multiple times throughout the day in several languages.

**@slice[Xilitla to Sotano de las Golondrinas](d,401887.7,446732.6)** - 28 miles, 5200' vertical

This next section out of Xilitla is short and sweet, gaining over 5000' (1500 m) of climbing in less than 30 miles (48 km). You'll ride through @photo[lush green forests](15037449) and coffee farms for much of the day, up grueling climbs but also down some harrowing descents. Stop by the tienda at @poi[Tlamaya](112433903) about 7 miles (11 km) outside of Xilitla and @photo[bring her a license plate](15037447) from your home state or country. She has @photo[four](15037448) and counting. The climbs here are generally on pavement with good traction, but the route will eventually narrow into a @slice[motorbike path](d,421647.1,424885.1) in one section.

This section terminates with a @slice[7.5 mile (12 km) climb](d,434696.9,446309.9) up to @poi[Sotano de las Golondrinas](112433905), the Basement of the Swallows, a @photo[massive sinkhole](15037452) over 1200' deep (360m). Every morning large flocks of swifts exit the sinkhole in a spiral, then return at night in a dramatic display. There are also flocks of green parakeets that live in the upper portion of the sinkhole. Camping is available in palapas within the park, which are recommended if you want to view both the morning and evening performance, although numerous stairs prevent you from bringing a bike to the palapas. Secure bike storage is available at the @poi[comedor near the entrance](112433906), or additional camping and cabin options are available in the small community above. For a real adventure, inquire about rappelling into the sinkhole with the local guides.

**@slice[Sotano de Las Golondrinas to El Naranjito](d,446732.6,495242.3)** - 31 miles, 2900' vertical

From @poi[Sotano de las Golondrinas](112433905) you have a @slice[wild descent into the lower valley](d,446732.6,460519.6), dropping 3200' (975 m) over 9 miles (14 km) to the town of @poi[Aquismon](112436477), which has all services and many lodging options. Keep an eye out for flocks of green parakeets through this stretch, maybe the same ones you saw leaving that morning. Beyond Aquismon you'll pass the low point of the trip at 210' elevation, which means there must be a climb coming. A @slice[3.5-mile (6 km) grind](d,465658.3,471217.3) will take you over a ridge into the @photo[Tampaon Valley](15037455), which is home to the famous @poi[Tamul waterfall](112433909), the tallest in San Luis Potosi at 350 ft (95 m). Boat rides to the falls are available from @poi[La Morena](112436478) and @poi[Tanchachin](112436479), which include a 3-4 hour roundtrip paddle up and back. Camping and cabins are also available from the tour providers.

Past Tanchachin you'll climb another small ridge into the town of @poi[El Naranjito](112436480), which also has camping and cabins, including the @poi[Thaju camping area](112433908) south of town. If you'd like a more intimate look at the Tamul waterfall, inquire locally about hiking trips that begin at the top of the falls and descend to the waterfall. These tours include a motorbike ride to the hiking area and offer a closer look at the falls than the busy boat tours.

**@slice[El Naranjito to El Platanito](d,495596.1,542012)** - 35 miles, 1700' vertical

North of El Naranjito you'll enter @photo[sugar cane country](15037457). This flat terrain offers pleasant riding past miles of agricultural land, with a few friendly towns in between. In this area you also have the option to extend the trip into the town of @poi[Tamasopo](112434824), which is approximately 15 miles (24 km) west of Rascon. Tamasopo is a touristy spot with numerous camping and lodging options, located adjacent to several outstanding waterfalls and other hiking opportunities. This side-trip would be an out-and-back option unless you choose to take Highway 70 into Tamasopo (Note that 70D is a toll road and bikes are not permitted).

From @poi[El Rascon](112436482) the route continues past more sugar cane fields with food and camping opportunities at @poi[Damian Carona](112436483) and @poi[Nuevo Crucitas](112433910). As you approach @poi[El Platanito](112433912) (approximately 5 miles, 8 km beyond Nuevo Crucitas) you'll find even more lodging opportunities, as well as tourist activities centered around the river and @poi[waterfalls](112433913) of this region, including swimming, zip-lines, and even the Sky Bike. I visited this area on a holiday weekend (Constitution Day) and found most cabins to be occupied, but camping was available at many locations. Meals are also generally available, so stick around and take advantage of the friendly hospitality of the locals in this gorgeous natural area.

**@slice[El Platanito to El Naranjo](d,542168.5,594850.5)** - 38 miles, 1800' vertical

The final section of the route continues through classic @photo[Huasteca Potosina country](15037462) with more sugar cane and waterfalls. I was tempted to ride the dirt roads through this section, but locals cautioned that they are generally used by large sugar cane trucks with little room for passing. This route goes through many areas harvesting and processing sugar cane, but I found the highway to be very pleasant riding with little traffic and very courteous drivers. Even a @photo[few cyclists along the way](15037461)!

Several roadside @poi[comedors](112433915) will appear along this reach, and near the community of Maitinez is another waterfall area called @poi[Minas Viajas](112433919) approximately 5 miles (8 km) off route. If time allows, you can visit one last waterfall and swimming area called @poi[Salto del Agua](112436484), approximately 9 miles (14 km) north of @photo[El Naranjo](15037464), with camping and cabins available. Once you've finally exhausted yourself through this beautiful region, you can catch a room at the finish line in @poi[El Naranjo](112433917) or catch a bus to the capital city of San Luis Potosi, which run several times daily from the @poi[Transpais bus station](112433918).

# Additional Resources
* [La Huasteca](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huasteca)
* [Huastec People](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huastec_people)
* [Teotithuacan](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teotihuacan)
* [Teotihuacan MTB Group](https://www.facebook.com/MountainTeotihuacanBike)
* [Father Tembleque Aqueduct](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aqueduct_of_Padre_Tembleque)
* [Real del Monte and](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_del_Monte) [Mineral del Chico](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_del_Chico)
* [Barranca de Metztitlan Biosphere Reserve](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barranca_de_Metztitl%C3%A1n)
* [Xilitla and](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xilitla) [Las Pozas](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Las_Pozas)
* [Sotano de las Golondrinas](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cave_of_Swallows)
* [Transpais Bus Service](https://transpais.com.mx/)
* [Vencedor Bus Service](https://www.grupovencedor.com/)
* [Cortacadenas Bike Shop](https://www.facebook.com/cortacadenas)

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