Route Overview

Vermilion Cliffs Overnighter takes bikepackers along the red butte-faces of Vermilion Cliffs National Monument and climbs through the aspens and pines of the northern Kaibab Plateau.

Bikepackers start the route by biking down Orderville Canyon on smooth dirt roads that tunnel through groves of ponderosa pines. A turn provides a smooth descent off the Kaibab Plateau on paved Highway 89A along with an iconic pullout for expansive views of House Rock Valley and Vermilion Cliffs National Monument. Riders then head north adjacent to the rock escarpments as the desert benchlands funnel into Coyote Valley. Then, it's a climb up and into the Buckskin Mountains where doubletrack carries cyclists through pinyon-juniper groves and intermittent grasslands that slowly climb up into ponderosa groves once more at Jacob Lake. After a resupply, bikepackers continue south as ponderosas give way to aspens, firs, and spruce at the high point of the route. Finally, a ride through an old burn scar followed by mature woodlands leads to the closure of the loop.

Route Highlights

• Riding along House Rock Road next to the Vermilion Cliffs.
• Colorful and iconic exposed geology.
• Opportunities for side-hikes (permits required) at Wire Pass, Buckskin Gulch, The Wave, and Coyote Buttes South.
• Riding from desert benchlands up to aspen-filled forests.
• Great dirt roads along a majority of the route.
• Great campsites at the Stateline Campground and Jacob Lake.

Recommended Tire Size: 2.2"-2.6"

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Riding Seasons:

• BEST TIME: Early Summer (May - Mid-June)
• BEST TIME: Fall (September - October)
• NOT POSSIBLE/ADVISABLE: Winter; Spring; Mid-Summer (November - April; Late June - August)

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Surface Color Guide

• Purple = Improved Dirt Surface (Frequently Maintained, Usually Smoother)
• Red = Rugged Dirt Surface (Infrequently Maintained, Typically Rougher/Rockier)
• Brown = Primitive Dirt Surface (Rarely/Never Maintained, Particularly Rocky/Rutted/Eroded)
• Blue = Vehicular Pavement

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Surface Conditions and Route Difficulty

• Physical Difficulty: 5/10* (Rugged terrain with frequent climbs, some of which may be steep and unrelenting)
• Technical Difficulty: 5/10* (Continuous sections of track may be rocky, loose, and steep; (e.g., 4×4 roads or singletrack in rugged/rocky terrain) suitable for riders with intermediate off-road experience)
• *Based on Bikepacking Roots' Rating Scales

Vermilion Cliffs Overmighter mostly sticks to improved dirt roads through US Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management land. Most of these roads feature hard-packed dirt, wider tread, and smoother surfaces. The roads that traverse the Buckskin Mountains at the norther portions of the route feature decayed doubletrack and rocky sections in places.

If any rain/snow is forecast, most of the unpaved route will become peanut butter/death mud and impassable in places. Leave No Trace and avoid riding at these times until the route dries out. In addition, flash flooding from precipitation is a real possibility in the lower portions of the route around the Vermilion Cliffs and House Rock Valley - stay safe and stay out of washes or low areas at those times.

The technical difficulty of the route is due to the few sections of rocky and loose doubletrack that extends up and across the Buckskin Mountains. The physical difficulty is mostly due to the climbing. Although most of the climbing is sustained and rolling, the one ascent up into the Buckskin Mountains is steep and will require most cyclists to hike-a-bike.

Noteworthy Climbs

1. Climbing up into the Buckskin Mountains from House Rock Valley Road

Noteworthy Primitive, Rocky Surfaces

1. The climb up into the Buckskin Mountains from House Rock Valley Road

Noteworthy Vehicular Pavement

1. Kaibab Descent to Vermilion Cliffs: Has little shoulder and high speeds on the road, but traffic can be light - especially in the morning. There are good lines-of-sights for both cyclists and drivers.

Parking

The route is intended to be ridden in a counterclockwise direction. The Arizona Trail: Murray Lake Trailhead is the official start and end for the Vermilion Cliffs Overnighter. This location has a pit toilet and informational sign on the AZT. This trailhead is about 0.25 miles down an unpaved 2WD-accessible road from paved Highway 67.

There are two parking options if you are looking to leave a vehicle for the duration of your ride.

• PARKING OPTION 1: AZT MURRAY LAKE TRAILHEAD: The Arizona Trail Murray Lake Trailhead contains several parking spots for long-term parking. Parking is not visible from the highway due to the woods which will keep your car better out-of-sight from the main drive. There are also many spots further along the dirt road past the TH where you can park your car in the forest if you want/need to. I like to contact the USFS to let them know I'll be parking for a while at a trailhead; they won't promise anything, but it's good peace-of-mind in case of an issue. If you want to do the same, reach out to the North Kaibab Ranger District.

• PARKING OPTION 2: JACOB LAKE INN: Jacob Lake Inn (which you passed on your way to the start) has graciously agreed to allow bikepackers to park vehicles on their property. There is no fee to park, and you are able to leave your vehicle at Jacob Lake Inn for however long you need; you’ll just need to provide the date you plan to finish and pick your vehicle back up. Reach out before your trip to confirm parking will be available (928-643-7232, jacob@jacoblake.com). When you arrive, head to the front desk to fill out a slip with your vehicle information and signature. Have your intended finish-date ready. After signing, the front desk clerk will let you know where to park your vehicle. If you are part of a group bringing more than 10 vehicles, you will need to let them know at least 4 days in advance so they can confirm with their managers. Give them big thanks for this opportunity! If you plan to leave your car at Jacob Lake Inn, expect to add about 6.7 miles of additional riding to both the start and end of the route (plus 650 feet of gain to begin and 650 feet of loss to finish). Ride the shoulder of HWY 67 to connect Jacob Lake Inn and the Arizona Trail Murray Lake Trailhead.

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Water and Food

Water Reliability Scale

• 1 = unreliable
• 2 = seasonal;
• 3 = mostly reliable;
• 4 = definite source

The remote nature of this route means riders need to carefully plan their water and food. The tablelands and canyonlands around the Vermillion Cliffs, House Rock Valley, and Buckskin Mountain are true desertscapes with little reliable surface runoff or pools. Plan to carry several liters of water and carry more than you think you'll need should you arrive at a source and find it dry. Most riders will need to carry enough water for over 24 hours at the start until they hit reliable sources on Day 2.

Definite water can be found at Jacob Lake. Beyond that, water is mostly found in dirt cattle tanks, metal cattle tanks, and Arizona Game and Fish Water Catchments (Wildlife Tanks).

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Fees and Permits

• Baaj Nwaavjo I'tah Kukveni National Monument, Kaibab National Forest, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument have no fees.
• A Recreational Land Use Permit is required for any travel or camping on Arizona State Lands. Apply for and pay for one before you head out on the route. Carry it with you.

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Important Information

ATVs: ATVs frequently use House Rock Valley Road/BLM 1065. The Wave, White Pocket, Coyote Buttes South, and the Buckskin Gulch have all made this dirt road increasingly popular for vehicular travel over the last several years. Expect mild intermittent washboard along sections of the road and some dust from passing vehicles. However, I have found drivers are pretty respectful, will check on you/offer you water, and give you space when passing.

Wind: Sections of this route are large exposed areas, and the wind can get ferocious, especially in the spring. Keep a positive mindset if you got caught in some. This usually means a headwind coming from the south or a crosswind coming from the west. Make sure your tent is pitched well, or choose to cowboy camp using some natural features as wind protection.

Dark Skies: Nearby Grand Canyon National Park is an International Dark Sky Park. This means that you can expect to have anywhere between Bortle Class 1 - 3 night skies overhead (even better night viewing during a new moon). The Bortle Class Scale is used to rate night skies on their clarity and lack of light pollution. A Bortle Class 1 is the darkest possible and there are several locations along these routes where, should you camp, you will have this level of darkness. Here, night skies will be virtually unimpeded by artificial light.

Fences: There may be "cowboy fences" on this route which consist of barbed wire wrapped around vertical wooden branches that are strung across roads. They can be opened by removing a loop of wire on one side. Most importantly, leave fences as you found them; re-close them if they were closed.

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General Access and Tribal Nations

This route stays explicitly within land domains where riding is public and legal. Although it may approach boundaries with the surrounding Tribal Nations, you should never ride onto the reservations without securing tribal government permission. Doing so otherwise is disrespectful and unlawful.

I must note that although this route stays on "public lands," the formation of Grand Canyon National Park and surrounding land designations involved the forced removal of tribes such as the Havasupai, and they have endured legal battles to keep their vastly smaller chunk of land out of their historical precedent. Know the land you are riding on is traditionally theirs, know their current reservation boundaries are smaller than where they historically inhabited, and know where you are riding to keep yourself both legal and respectful.

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Camping

In the the Baaj Nwaavjo I'tah Kukveni National Monument, Kaibab National Forest, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and House Rock Valley, excellent and numerous dispersed camping abounds.

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Sample Route Itinerary

This is a suggested itinerary. Use it as a rough guide for your own planning purposes. Feel free to use it, adapt it, or don't use it at all and make your own plans. Plan your trip on this route based on your own strengths, comfort, experience, wants, and needs.

Day 1

• Mileage: 40 Miles
• Elevation Gain: 1000 Feet
• Water: None - Carry enough water to get you through tomorrow.
• Resupply: None
• Camping: Stateline Campground; Dispersed camping at a few pullouts further down the road

Day 2

• Mileage: 42 Miles
• Elevation Gain: 4200 Feet
• Water: Wildlife Tanks about halfway into the day's riding; Jacob Lake
• Resupply: Jacob Lake Inn has a restaurant and small convenience store.
• Camping: Jacob Lake Campground; Kaibab Camper Village; Jacob Lake Inn; Dispersed camping in the woods nearby

Day 3

• Mileage: 17 Miles
• Elevation Gain: 1500 Feet
• Water: Wildlife Tank near the end of the ride
• Resupply: None
• Camping: Finish! Jacob Lake Campground; Kaibab Camper Village; Jacob Lake Inn; Dispersed camping in the woods nearby

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Other Route Options:

Looking for a longer route, other overnighters, or a day ride at the Grand Canyon? Check out these nearby options below:

• North Rim - Capes of the Canyon
• Grand Canyon Overnighters
• North Rim COTC Passages

*Vermilion Cliffs Overnighter is made from Passage 1: Jacob Lake, Passage 2: Vermilion Cliffs, and Passage 3: Buckskin Mountains from the North Rim - Capes of the Canyon.