BicycleCartographer

Savoring the Annecy Lake Region

The Annecy Lake region, located in France's Haute Savoie department near the Swiss border, produces some of the most delicious cheese in the world. On breathtakingly beautiful bike rides through the countryside, you will often cross paths with the cows who furnished the raw ingredient.

Annecy is an economically thriving town of 50,000 in the heart of the French Alps. It's a tourist destination for swimming and water sports in the beautifully clean aquamarine-tinted lake, the third largest in France. Other attractions are charming canals, a medieval "old town", a castle, open-air markets and a plethora of events such as the Annecy International Animated Film Festival Each June.

For bicyclists, Annecy is a near paradise. A flat and beautifully maintained bike trail spans from the town green (called Le Pâquier) along the lake and 36 kilometers to the nearby town of Ugine; you can continue another 12 miles to Albertville on a mix of bike trails and regular roads. Nearly two thirds of the famous "Tour du Lac" ride around the lake can already be enjoyed on bike trails shielded from cars--and more are being built at this very moment.

For those who enjoy a challenge, Annecy is surrounded by stunningly beautiful mountain climbs on paved roads, with long, winding descents.

It's no wonder the Tour de France has passed through here three times since 1947, most recently in 2013.

The region's mountain passes, called "cols," provide an opportunity to climb for hours as the view improves with every kilometer of effort. When you get to the top, there is a often sign with the name of the mountain pass and its elevation. When you get there, take a picture--because you will have earned it.

My goal as ambassador is to bring you a mix of different road rides of different lengths and difficulties, each offering unique and unexpected feasts for the eyes, the tastebuds and the spirit.

All of the routes will start and end next to the lake in the center of town. Depending on the direction the route begins, I'll have you start at either the Bonlieu cultural center at 1 Rue Jean Jaurès or from the "Hotel de Ville," or town hall a few hundred meters away.

I'll be gradually adding routes as I ride them, and adding to the cycling tips below as time and inspiration permits. Watch here for regular updates and improvements!

If you have questions, comments or suggestions you can write me at my profile handle at gmail.com.

# SAVOYARD CYCLING TIPS
The rides selected here all have in common that they start, and end, at Annecy Lake. In fact, they span two scenic French departments, Savoie (pronounced Sav Wah) and Haute Savoie. In Latin, Savoie means "land covered in fir trees." Inhabitants of the region are called Savoyards.

## Safety and bike path Etiquette

*  This region is heavily mountainous, and even some of the easier routes listed here have steep descents and hairpin turns. Check your brakes before starting and make sure you can reach them comfortably. If your brakes are "spongy" and require you to press hard to stop, your hands will be exhausted. If needed, have the bike fit or brake tightness adjusted at a bike shop.

* Slaloming down curving roads in Savoie is some of the most fun you can have ever, at least legally. If you haven't done big descents before I suggest doing some reading and watching some videos--particularly on breaking and leaning technique. Here are some basic tips: Brake before the curve, then release the brakes and let your momentum carry you through. If you must break during a perilous curve, use the rear brake alone or both brakes together as if you skid you're less likely to wipe out. If your hands need a break from braking during a long steady descent, you can sit up tall and let the wind resistance of your body slow you down. If you're not racing, why not enjoy the view?

* Despite its idyllic appearance, the region--particularly in and around the city--is packed with cars and motorcycles. Many drive aggressively, and its not unusual for motorists to refuse to yield to a cyclist if they think the cyclist is in the wrong. So be careful to follow the rules of the road--stopping at red lights and stop signs. Don't assume a motorist will give you the right of way just because he or she sees you. I've marked particular trouble spots on each route.

* The region's network of well-maintained and well-marked bike paths offer a welcome break from cars. The paths, popular with locals, are teeming with cyclists and on shared paths (marked espace partagée"), also with pedestrians.  Like many bike paths worldwide, slow traffic stays right and faster traffic can pass on the left. A lot of area cyclists are experienced and ride aggressively; others are aggressive without the requisite experience. To keep safe, you should be alert at all times. I recommend any activity with your phone, such consulting as the Ride with GPS app, should be done stopped at the side of the path.

* While a friendly call of "on your left" is common courtesy in the U.S., in France this custom is virtually unknown. Cyclists in Savoie and Haute Savoie pass each other silently, sometimes practically grazing elbows and often at breakneck speed. This is, after all, Tour de France territory. For you, that means getting in the habit of keeping a straight line on the path and never moving left or right without looking first. When passing, if you'd like to give a warning, I suggest a simple "bonjour" as "on your left" or the French translation of it will only mystify people.

* In cooler weather, be careful of black ice, which is commonly found in shady areas and in tunnels. If you see a sign which says "verglas fréquent" or "risque de verglas" be especially careful.

* Many urban style bikes in France come equipped with bells. If you have one, go ahead and use it, but be aware that the bell most commonly means "get out of my way please" rather than "hey, just wanted to let you know I'm here."

* Children are welcome on bike paths. However, educate them first so they stay safe. I overheard a French mother telling her toddler son, "the bike path is like a highway--except for bicyclists." This is excellent advice.

* In summer and spring, road work often creates patchy spots of gravel, called "gravillons." They are clearly marked with signs, and usually let you know how long they'll last. These are annoying on the way up, and potentially hazardous on the way down. At the top of a peak, cyclists often compare notes on where the gravillons are...

* Helmets are optional in France, however, I recommend them highly, particularly in the well-traveled Annecy region. They are generally free with a bike rental. Just ask for "une casque," pronounced "oon cask."

* It's a good idea to make sure you have a local cell phone if you need to call an ambulance. The best number to call is 15. If you don't have a local cell phone, info on getting one is provided below in the "local living" section.

## Climbing
Being a mountainous region, there are a lot of long climbs. The first question you need to ask yourself before strapping on your helmet around here is whether the mountain you are about to tackle will be enjoyable at your current level of fitness, how you feel that day etc.

If you are looking for a perfectly flat ride, the best thing to do is head out on the bike path towards Doussard, with the lake on your left and just ride as far as you like! The  path continues 37 kilometers to Ugine, then another eight kilometers on mixed roads and bike paths to Albertville. It's flat with just some slight slopes and a few tiny hills.

If you want to climb stuff, and you're new at it (or experienced but not yet expert) I suggest watching some videos onine on good climbing technique--particularly the part about keeping your body relaxed. Watching just a few videos really made a difference for me. Start first with seated technique; when you have mastered that gradually see if riding out of the saddle (called dancing here in France) works for you. Start dancing gradually and listen to your body, as it puts more stress on the body and you don't want to end up injured with such gorgeous mountains all around you!

Before you choose a route, decide if it is the right amount of climbing for you. Here's a step by step guide to assessing just how strong your quads need to be for a route:

* **Number of meters climbed total** This stat is listed at the top of the ambassador route descriptions. I use meters in my descriptions since that is the unit here in France, but use whatever you like, as long as you are consistent. When you're first starting out, 300 meters of climbing a day will seem like a lot. After a bit of training, 1000 in a ride seems like an enjoyable effort. If you're used to doing 1000 in a day, ramp it up gradually after that, adding a bit of hills each time.

* **Average Grade of Major Climbs** I list the average grade of the major climb (or climbs) in each route at the very top of each route description, under the heading "Climbing Index." Average grade is the % of slope with 0% being completely flat. There is a [complex formula](http://theclimbingcyclist.com/gradients-and-cycling-an-introduction/), but it is fairly accurate to approximate it simply by dividing the number of meters you climb by the total distance: For example, if you climb 100 meters in 10 kilometers, that's a 1% grade. 200 meters is 2% etc. Anything 3% and under is a nice gentle ramp up. 4% to 5% starts to feel like a real climb if it goes on a while. 6% to 8% is much more difficult; hold off on these until the gentler climbs feel easy for you. If you're climbing 9% or steeper average grade climbs, you probably already know everything in this section.

* **Maximum Grade** Even if the average grade and total climb is fine for you, a ride can become very difficult because of one or two short sections that are too steep. You can see this by mousing over the elevation profile in the Ride with GPS route and scanning the grades. For your convenience, I've put it in the Climbing Index. If you're very new at riding, a few hundred meters at 6% to 9% may force you to get off an walk. 10% to 13% is going to be painful even for seasoned climbers, but if it's brief, it should be fine if you're in shape. Over 14% and especially over 16% is extremely challenging. Just to put it in perspective, modern roads in the U.S. have limits on slope, and for this reason, it's extremely rare to encounter a grade steeper than 15%.

## Using Ride with GPS in the Annecy region

I find the GPS signal generally pretty good in the region--even high in the mountains. Now and then, it's a bit weak and my path is slightly off where I actually am, but it usually rights itself pretty quickly.

If you are traveling from abroad, you may find data rates are very expensive. I suggest contacting your provider in advance and finding out if your phone will work in France and also if you can get a cheap data plan.

For U.S. residents with iPhones, an AT&T phone will work in France while a Verizon one will not, since AT&T uses the same system used here in France. To avoid ruinous roaming charges, I buy a monthly international data plan for $60 to $120 a month on AT&T, depending on how much data I think I'll need.

Another method is to get a "prepaid" French phone which has "unités," or credits you can "recharge" online or with a coupon you buy at a Tabac, or tobacco store. The catch is iPhones from carrier Orange for prepaid usage are full price, and I don't think you can put the French SIM card into your U.S. phone without jailbreaking it.

If anyone has experience with other carriers, from any country, to add, write me at the email address given in my profile and I'll add the info here.

## Food and Water

Climbing depletes a lot of water, and on summer days here it can get swelteringly hot on the way up a mountain. I carry at least two 21 ounce bottles with me, and more when I know I'll be in a more rural area. It's also critical not to lose too much salt through your sweat, so salty snacks as well as fast-energy snacks are a good idea.

* I've marked convenience stories on the routes, as they are great places to pick up snacks or water. You can also find water at bakeries (boulangeries), as well as bread and goodies of course. You can ask for a bottle of water to go in any café.

* In rural areas, there will often be a public fountain in the center of each village. These fountains are awesome--charming looking, delicious water, and cool water even on hot days. It's understood locally that if the fountain doesn't have a warning sign on it (more on that below), it's safe to drink. Always take your drinking water from the faucet, not the basin below it. And now to the labels. If it says "eau nonpotable" that means it's not safe to drink--use it to rinse your hands or throw on your face to cool off, but don't drink it. Other fountains (for example at the top of the Col des Leschaux) are marked "eau non surveillée, which means it isn't tested regularly. Many cyclists drink from these fountains and I've not yet heard about anyone getting sick.

* I've marked snack bars and convenience stores on the routes, but I suggest you bring some snacks with you--particularly on Sundays and Mondays when many stores are closed.

* The way eating establishments are labeled in France gives you a lot of information about what is expected. In a "restaurant," open only during meals (see below) you can't just go in order a drink or a snack--you are expected to order a meal. However, at "cafés," "bars," or "brasseries, open long hours, are all good places to rehydrate or snack without committing to a full meal. If a restaurant serves drinks and snacks throughout the day, it will be called a "café restaurant" or "bar restaurant."

* Unlike other countries where restaurants may often be open all day, in France lunch is served from noon to around 2 p.m., and dinner starts at 7 p.m. If you want to eat in between look for a snack bar (called "Snack" for short) (which means a snack bar). Crêperies are also often open, and you can often get something light at a café, bar or brasserie.

* In the summer, with the tough climbs, it's not unusual to get heat cramps from salt and electrolytes lost from sweating. Sports drinks, of course, are a good option, as are salty snacks.

## Rest rooms
Rest rooms are pretty easy to find near town, and in the country, not so much. I'll mark all the public toilets I find.  Grocery and convenience stores are much less likely to have public restrooms than in the U.S., so your best bet is a café or bar. Restrooms are generally for customers only, but it's common practice to buy something to drink to use the bathroom before moving on; many French people buy a cup of coffee for this purpose as it's the cheapest, usually 1.4 Euros. I can't stomach coffee while riding so I get sparkling water or juice. If you can't find anything open at all, of course, there's vast stretches of great outdoors.

## What to Bring

Many of the routes I've mapped for you are are in the middle of the countryside with nothing but cows and farms for kilometers. So it's a good idea to be self sufficient and bring some basic supplies.

Here's what I bring:

* At least two 21-ounce bottles of water or one bottle of sports drink and one bottle of water--more if the route has a long stretch without available water. I put these in the two cages on my bicycle. I make my own sports drink by heating water with sugar, a little salt and a little honey, then cooling the water overnight; the next morning before taking off, I add a little fresh-squeezed citrus of whatever kind I have in the house.

* Snacks. Dried and/or fresh fruit, nuts chocolate. I also like to bring a sandwich of local cured ham, as it holds up well in the heat.

* A small bag of sea salt. On hot days, a lot of electrolytes get sweated off. As explained above, I carry this in case I can't find anything else to replace them in time, and it's saved me a few times.

* Two extra tire tubes, a patch kit, tire irons and pump.

* In addition to my iPhone for using Ride with GPS, I carry an inexpensive French cell phone for emergencies.

* Layers: Even if it seems like a pretty warm day, it can get much colder at the top of a mountain and riding down can definitely be a very chilly experience. Do as the locals do, and bring a light or windbreaker jacket on warm days and more substantial layers--a neck warmer or scarf, a warm lightweight jacket and gloves--on colder days.

* Extra tissues in case you need to hide behind a bush and take care of business. I also bring a plastic bag to take dirty tissues with me rather than litter.

* Extra cash. I keep an extra 50 Euros in my patch kit, just in case my wallet is lost or stolen.

# Bike Shops
The below shops are a good place to buy supplies, have repairs done or rent a bike. This is but a small selection of the options available.

Bike rentals in the area are generally 20 Euros a day, or 15 Euros for a half day, for urban bikes (vélo de ville). These are heavy bikes with fat tires and a comfortable upright posture. If you haven't done a lot of biking, this may be the bike you find most fun for a weekend of riding. These bikes are great for the city and the flat bike trail towards Doussard.

Hybrid bikes or Vélo Tout Chemin (VTC) cost 20 Euros a day. These are between a road bike and an urban bike--sporty, and lighter than the city version, but still with fat tires and an upright stance. They are a good choice for the Tour du Lac or the bike trail.

Road bikes, touring or racing, are available at some shops for 30 to 50 Euros a day depending on how high end you go. You'll need one of these if you want to do any of the more difficult routes, ie. anything that climbs more than 500 metres.

At some stores, can also rent electric bikes for about 35 Euros daily. These are great if you want to enjoy one of the simpler routes without exerting yourself more than you're ready for. I see a lot of people enjoying the Tour du Lac on these. I urge caution, however, about taking one on the more difficult routes. The battery power is limited, and if it runs out in the middle of nowhere, and you're not able to climb the hills, you will be stranded. The descents on some of these routes are harrowing, and may be hard to maneuver on a big, heavy electric bike. I'm not saying don't do it, but do think it over carefully and talk to the bike shop about your plans.

[**Coup de Pompe**](http://http://www.coup-de-pompe.fr/index.php) 400 Route du Taillefer, Doussard. Telephone: 04 50 05 54 95. Well known as a café to get excellent frozen smoothies right off the bike path, the Coup de Pompe also does bike repairs and rents bikes. It's a popular place to rent tandems and the owners are very friendly.

**[Culture Vélo](http://www.culturevelo.com/-Annecy-)**, 11 Chemin de Periaz, Seynod.  Open Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 a.m.-12 p.m and 2 p.m.-7 p.m.  Telephone: 04 50 10 02 02.  This is one of my favorite bike shops for friendly service from the owner, Laurent. Seynod is a town which is a 5 kilometer bike ride from the center of Annecy (up a bike hill) or you can take the number five bus from the train station to the Seynod Périaz stop. It's a good place to buy bike supplies, get repairs done and get books on biking in the region. High performance bikes are available for rental.

[**L'original Bicycle Shop**](http://originalbicyclestore.com/)  2, rue du Collège Chappuisien, Annecy. Right behind the MonoPrix store. Telephone: 09 82 39 28 26. Gorgeous beach cruiser type bikes in pretty colors available for rent, plus electric bikes. Also sells new and used bikes. Friendly service, open long hours, and known in the area for reasonably priced repairs.

[**Roul' ma poul**](http://www.annecy-location-velo.com) 4, Rue des Marquisats, Annecy. [Open every day 9:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Telephone: 04 50 27 86 83. E-mail: info@roulmapoule.com. This is a well-equipped store where you can rent urban bikes, road bikes, hybrids and electric bikes. They also have kayaks and roller blades! There's two stores, one in Annecy, listed here, and one in Annecy le Vieux, the next town over.

[**Sévrier Sport**](http://www.location-velo-annecy.com) 65, Place de la Mairie, Sévrier.  Next to the church and a pharmacy. Open every day 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Telephone: 04 50 52 42 68. This shop has a wide range of rentals available--including high-performance bikes and trailers to haul a child in behind your bike. It's friendly, and handy if you have a flat or mechanical problem on the bike trail. When you're leaving Annecy towards Doussard, after about 5-6 kilometers you'll see a church on the right. Turn onto a small road and climb to the church, and you'll see the bike shop nearby.

[**Véloannecy** ](http://www.velonecy.com ) Place de la Gare, Annecy. Open Monday through Saturday 9 a.m.-1 p.m. and 2 p.m.-7:30 p.m. Telephone: 04 50 51 38 90, Urban bike rental service located in the train station in the center of town. Classic urban bikes, folding bikes and electric bikes are all available, for short-term or long-term rental. Classic bikes cost 15 Euros a day for the general public, but are discounted to 5 Euros daily if you're a local resident (with utility bill as proof) or if you have a train ticket. Either way, you need a deposit of 250 Euros for a classic or electric bike and 800 Euros for an electric bike.

# Bike Resources
## Books
[**Les Plus Beaux Itinéraires Cylcos en Haute-Savoie**](http://www.editions-gap.fr/fiche-A%7CGAP%7CCYCLO74-02050000000000000000-FR-231-MONTAGNE.html) Superb book by Jean-Marc Lamory on biking in the region. Routes clearly laid out with pictures, maps and elevation gains.  The book is in French, but since the most useful aspect of the book is visual, it should serve anyone just fine with a dictionary at hand. Also check out the companion volume on routes in neighboring Savoie.

## Web Sites

[**Alpes4ever**](http://www.alpes4ever.com/) This awesome site, created by a cyclist, shows the profile of  the climbs in the region, and shows you a view of each different approach. In French, but if you don't speak French you can still use the neat pictograms which show the grade of the climb at each stage.

[**Un Jour Un Col**](http://www.1jour1col.com)   This is the "one day, one col" Web site. Every summer from mid-June to September, one mountain pass is closed every week to cars, making it a magical wonderland for bicycles and pedestrians. If you're lucky, they'll be something fun, like a brass band, to greet you at the top of the climb. NOTE in 2017: Sadly, this awesome program has been suspended. Leaving it here in the hopes that they will resume it another year!

## Bike Clubs
[**Vélo Club D'Annecy**](http://www.velo-club-annecy.fr)  12 rue Louis Boch, Annecy. Telephone: 04 50 67 79 14. This is a very friendly local bike club, worth joining if you're going to be around for a while. Rides are available for all levels, from "Relax" to "Sportif," or very athletic. It's a club with a wide spectrum of ages, including people up into their 80s. You can ride three times with the club to try it out before joining. To join, you need to pay about 50 Euros (which includes insurance, so your fee depends on how heavily you choose to insure yourself.) You also need a certificate from a doctor saying it is medically okay for you to practice  "cyclotourisme" or bike riding. If you want to chat with members before deciding to join, you can stop by Tuesdays during office hours around 7-9 p.m.; there are often a lot of membersthere on those nights.

# Lodging
There are a wide variety of lodging options available in the Annecy region, from hotels, to small short-term rental apartments, called appart-hotels. With few exceptions, every lodging I've stayed in has been bicycle friendly and has either had a dedicated spot for bicycles or allowed me to bring mine to my room. It's a good idea to ask, since one time I got yelled at for bringing my bike into my room.

When you're far from the city, you need to make sure you can find a good meal where you are. Many B&B's have a "Table de Hôtes" which is a dinner for guests and family--informal, and sometimes very very good. Nearly every hotel will offer breakfast, often complimentary; it usually starts around 7:30 or 8 a.m. so if you want to hit the road earlier you need to picnic it.

If you're interested in staying in a campsite, called "Campings" but don't have a tent ask for a mobile home, which you just say in English with a French accent (hint, you don't pronounce the 'H'.) Some campsites also have little huts or cabanes. Sheets and towels aren't necessarily provided, so ask first; sometimes the sheets in campsites are very uncomfortable paper disposable sheets.

There are two many lodging options to list them all, but as I stay in places that are particularly cyclist friendly I will add them.

[**Les Privilodges**](http://http://www.apparthotel-annecy.com/fr/) 9, rue Royale, Annecy. 04 50 88 50 00 This is an "apparthotel" meaning it's a hotel that is a bit more like an apartment, with kitchen and other home comforts. Georgeous old building where Napoleon used to stay, with half of the rooms overlooking a gorgeous church courtyard. Tiny rooms and suites, depending on your needs, with tiny kitchens and a shared laundromat on the first floor. Bike friendly, as you can take your bike to your room or leave it in the locked bike room downstairs. The last time I stayed here the Internet was unreliable, but they were working on it. It's a good place for bicyclists because of the kitchen and laundromat and very friendly employees. You can purchase breakfast there, or make your own in your room. Prices fairly high, but drop somewhat the longer you stay. There are also some discounts on the Web site some days.

# Local living

## Cell phones

You can get a local cell phone at one of the many stores of major carriers Orange or SFR, or you can try underdog Bouygues. If you're just in France briefly you want a prepaid phone. It's simple: Pick a phone in your budget and buy a SIM card (it's about 10 Euros) at the store. You can buy your first credits right there in the store, and after that you can recharge it online with a credit card. Alternatively you can buy a recharge coupon for a variety of amounts at a Tabac, or tobacco store. (ask for 
"une recharge mobile" and then name your carrier). The good news is the emergency number to call an ambulance, 15, works even if you don't have any credit yet.

## Language

English is widely spoken in Annecy. If you don't speak French, a few basic words can help you be polite.

* **Bonjour** (bon joor) for hello in the daytime
* **Bonsoir** (bon swahr) for hello in evening or night
* **S'il vous plait** (seel voos play) means please and **merci** (mehr see) means thank you

And perhaps the most important is that in France it's very important to say hello and greet someone before asking for help or directions. It's polite to address strangers as **madame** (mah dom) or **meisseur** (miss sioor). For example, if you're about to ask someone directions, you might start with **bonjour madame** and then go ahead an launch into "do you speak English."

## Hours
Many stores close for a lunch break, usually around noon to 2 p.m., but the break may start earlier or go longer.  Also, many businesses close both Sunday and Monday. Many food stores are open Sunday morning only. So start thinking on Friday and Saturday about what you may need to tide you over to Tuesday.

## PUBLIC TRANSIT

The public transit here is excellent. In general, you can take bicycles on normal trains (called TER), but not on the rapid intercity trains (called TGV.) A small number of TGV trains do allow you to take bicycles, however, you need to reserve a spot for yourself and your bicycle. Always double check when you buy a ticket if you can bring your bicycle. In theory, you can be refused on regular trains if they are two crowded--however, this has never happened to me. On a TER, there will be one car with a bicycle symbol on it. Enter in that door and then you can hang your bike on one of the hooks. It's great!

## MARKETS

Annecy is a mecca for food lovers. Open-air markets are held Tuesday, Friday and Sunday mornings until about 12:30 p.m., with farm stands, local sausage and ham, cheese and a plethora of other delicacies. On Sundays, there are also inexpensive generally low-quality clothes for sale and a lot of knick-nacks.

With bicycling, and ride recovery in mind, here are my favorite things to buy at the market:

* **Fruit** In the summer, the possibilities are endless. I particularly like flat peaches "pêches plates" as they are delicious and the flat shape fits well in my front handlebar bag.  Look for "producteur" signs, as that means you're buying direct from the farmer.If you catch it right, there's a Greek guy that sells amazing oranges from his family orchard. The same stand has olives to die for and, in season, Italian plum tomatoes that are the best I've ever had.

* **Dried fruit** Dried figs, apricots and dates are sold at the market. Some of the dates available here are fat and soft. They are delicious, but as they squish in a bike bag, you may prefer the harder ones.

* **Ham and sausage** The ham comes in a round ball (called a noyau, or nut, in French),and you choose between smoked and fresh. And then there are salamis galore, plain, or with nuts or mushrooms in them. There are a plethora of stands which sell these delicacies; some are better than others, but none are bad. Most offer free samples. These meats don't need refrigeration (just leave in the paper the vendor wrapped it in!) and hold up well on bicycles on hot days, as do all the sausages.

* **Savon de Marseilles** This simple natural French soap comes in bar or liquid form. I find the bars are a great way to wash out my bike clothes when I don't have access to a machine. I recommend the plain kind--with no added fragrances. The vendor with the best authentic Marseilles soap also has a lot of herbs, so you can find him that way as he's the only one with a huge array of herbs and soap. You can also buy this in most pharmacies.

* **Fresh apple cider** In fall, and into winter, there is fresh squeezed apple cider. It comes in pasteurized and nonpasteurized versions. The unpasteurized is heavenly, but of course, if you have any health concerns go with pasteurized.

* **Cheese** The local cheeses are stunning, of which "tomme," a hearty but often low fat cheese, is the most classic. You can get great cheese at the market. If you want to linger over your choice, get expert advice and sample several options, you might want to try one of the cheese stores listed below.

## Food Stores

There are too many to list, but I'm suggesting a few favorites, with an emphasis on stores that sell items you might want for bicycle snacking or quick meal prep in a hotel room. Everything I list here, except the supermarkets, is on the pricey side--but worth the splurge.

**Aux Quatre Saisons** 14 Rue Filaterie, Annecy 04 50 45 02 66 Amazing, fresh fruits and vegetables from France and other countries. This is the best greengrocer I've seen anywhere in the world. The service is excellent, and like most French greengrocers, you wait to be served and do not touch anything yourself. You can ask what's best and even say that you would like a piece of fruit to be ready for today, tomorrow etc. You can get fresh fruit for your rides, and there is also a great selection of dried fruit. Beware the big plump dates as they are stunningly delicious but too fragile for a bike bag.

**Fromagerie Pierre Gay** 47, rue Carnot, 74000 Annecy. There are a handful of top-tier cheese stores in Annecy, including at least one at the markets. This is my favorite, both for quality and friendliness. Pierre Gay has the ultra-prestigious MOF designation; It stands for "Meilleur Ouvrier de France," or best craftsman in France and means he won a very rigorous competition in a given year to take the top prize. That said, don't expect a whiff of snottiness or snobbery here. Mr. Gay himself smiles from ear to ear every time he's behind the counter, gives free samples will explain whatever you want to know. The employees are also very knowledgeable and unfailingly friendly. If you're going to transport cheese, ask for it vacuum packed, our sous vide (soo veed) in French.

**Saveurs d'ici et là**  4, rue Filaterie
Annecy. 04 50 45 43 19. Of all the small, expensive boutiques selling luxury food in Annecy, this one stands out for having the best selection and great advice. The balsamic vinegars, the oils and the jams are particular standouts. There's also a small, but well-curated, selection of wines.

[**Boulangèrie Rouge**](http://www.boulangerierouge.com) 3, rue du Lac, Annecy. Open every day but Monday. This is one of the best bakeries in town. The baguettes and various other breads are crunchy on the outside and wonderfully soft inside. The croissant often sell out, for good reason. The specialty here is the thin tartes, and the pear is a particular delicacy.

[**Le Boulanger du Faubourg**](https://www.facebook.com/LeBoulangerDuFaubourg/info?tab=overview) 11 Faubourg Sainte Claire
Annecy, 04 50 45 01 22. In the heart of the "old town" this is an artisan-style bakery from which everything I tried has been exceptional.

**MonoPrix** 3 Rue du Collège Chappuisien
Annecy. 04 50 45 23 60. Open every day but Sunday. This is a giant store with just about everything you might need. The food, kitchen supplies and hardware section is on the second floor. It's a big chain, but known for having brand name foods for reasonable prices, and you'll often find a higher-end item here you can't find at another supermarket. This chain used to be called Prisunic, and many locals still call it that.

**Franprix** 	7 Rue de l'Annexion, Annecy
04 50 68 21 42. Smaller supermarket with easy to navigate layout and large selection. Less time consuming to navigate than the Monoprix if you just need groceries.

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