Biking the Bayou - NOLA to Pensacola

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Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, USA

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John in Butte

Gravel and MTB Rides around Montana, Mexico, and beyond!

388 km

517 m

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## Background

Biking the Bayou is a 2-4 day ride from New Orleans to Pensacola, crossing the bayous of Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama into the Panhandle of Florida. The route is primarily on pavement with occasional forays onto gravel and a ferry ride across Mobile Bay. I explored this route in early November, which for me is always a good time to escape the impending cold of winter. If you're arriving from elsewhere, plan to spend at least a full day in NOLA to sample its renowned food, architecture, music, and entertainment before hitting the road. Fit riders could knock this out in 2 days, but I took 4 casual days to complete the route with mileage ranging from 50-70 miles as described in the segments below. A skinny-tired road bike would be sufficient to complete the trip, which is approximately 90% on pavement, but you might want some chunkier tires for the infrequent gravel sections (which could also be avoided if needed).

**New Orleans, LA to Waveland, MS (60 miles)**

The route starts at Jackson Square in the French Quarter where you can grab a coffee at the historic Cafe du Monde before you set out. Right away the ride will bring you into the natural wonders surrounding this city, as you jump the seawall and ride the dirt path along the @slice[40 Arpent wetlands](d,10132.6,13736.8) just 6 miles out. The route also takes you onto a @slice[solitary dirt trail in Bayou Sauvage Preserve](d,29436.1,34564.2) where you might catch a lucky gator sighting. The entrance to the preserve takes a pipleline maintanence road that is a little unconventional but worth the effort. After cutting through the preserve you will join Hwy 90 on a narrow strip between Lake Pontchartrain and Lake St. Catherine. Food options are sparse through here, but you can resupply on snacks at bait shops and marinas. Once you approach the Mississippi state line you'll entounter a @slice[3-mile stretch of highway](d,68301,73419.2) that is closed to vehicles but still accessbile by bicycle. These bridges were damaged by hurricane Katrina in 2005 but have never been repaired, so pass your bike over the barricade and enjoy this stretch of solitude before entering Pearlington, your first town in Mississippi. The route joins a @slice[gravel portion](d,82035.6,87087.2) of the Old Spanish Trail before swinging south and joining the Gulf near Waveland. I overnighted in Waveland which has good food options with local seafood. Camping is available at Buccaneer State Park if desired.

**Waveland, MS to Ocean Springs, MS (50 miles)**

Starting near Waveland, cyclists can enjoy a nearly @slice[40-mile stretch of sidewalk all the way to Biloxi](d,97184,155018.1), which makes for effortless riding along the Gulf. @point[Bay St. Louis](d,107745.6) is a pretty little town with excellent pastries and coffee. After the long bridge over the Bay, you'll enter @point[Pass Christian](d,117126.9), which was once called the "Newport of the South" due to its sprawling mansions. Unfortunately, Pass Christian was ground zero for hurricane Katrina and suffered some of the worst devastation, but a ride down @slice[Scenic Drive](d,117579.4,121231.2) will still bring you past many architectural gems both new and old. If you like big old trees, swing through the campus of the University of Southern Mississippi Gulf Park and visit the @poi[Friendship Oak](162785429), a 500-year old beauty that has survived countless hurricanes. Swing into Gulfport to see the funky @poi[Fishbone Alley](162785430), and sample any of the fine restaurants downtown. @point[Biloxi](d,155989.81) also offers its share of street art and culinary delights, plus you can take a spin on the fishing pier before crossing @slice[Biloxi Bay Bridge](d,160716.9,163717.1). @point[Ocean Springs](d,165121.38) is also a charming little town with a vibrant art scence, wonderful seafood, and city parks to explore. I spent my time in Ocean Springs with an old high school buddy, but you'll also find plenty of hotels, AirBnBs, or even Warmshowers hosts if you choose to overnight here. Camping is also available at @point[Davis Bayou Campground](d,170176.97) in Gulf Islands National Seashore.

**Ocean Springs, MS to Dauphin Island, AL (70 miles)**

Leaving Ocean Springs you'll follow the @slice[Old Spanish Trail](d,172334,188335.8) into Gautier, then join @slice[Highway 90](d,188693.9,193988.9) which has generous shoulders for safe riding. At Pascagoula take a detour into town to refuel and visit the @poi[childhood home of Jimmy Buffett](162785451), troubadour of the tropics. You can also visit @poi[Buffett Bridge](162785473) where little Jimmy used to fish as a boy. You'll rejoin @slice[Highway 90](d,218282.6,230964.1) and cross the Alabama state line near Grand Bay, where you turn onto the @slice[Alabama's Coastal Connection](d,236256.8,267172.3). Once you hit Alabama the shoulder becomes considerably smaller, and the grooved shoulder doesn't allow much space for riding, but I still encountered courteous drivers through this stretch. This portion parallels the Southern Tier bike route so locals are accustomed to seeing bike traffic. You'll continue down the Coastal Connection toward Dauphin Island, with detours through the ship-building and fishing communities of @slice[Bayou La Batre and Coden](d,246590.9,256560.6). Take the@slice[ Gordon Persons bridge](d,273422.5,278870.3) into Dauphin Island where you'll find cozy accomodations and plenty of food choices, including camp sites run by the city. Keep an eye out for dolphins playing in the Gulf while crossing the bridge.

**Dauphin Island, AL to Pensacola, FL (62 miles)**

From Dauphin Island you'll have to catch the @slice[ferry across Mobile Bay](d,289730.9,295827.2) to Fort Morgan. The ferry generally runs every 1.5 hours, but they will shut it down for wind, so watch the weather and check their schedule for potential closures. Once on the east side of the bay you'll cruise past high rise condos along bike paths and sidewalks into Gulf Shores. Enjoy a short @slice[foray through Gulf State Park](d,329138.7,343683.9), then cross the Florida state line at Perdido Key. The route continues along generous shouldered roads into the historic downtown of Pensacola. If your trip ends here there are several bike shops that could provide a box for the trip home, and the Pensacola airport is just a short Uber ride from downtown. Enjoy another round of oysters and take in some blues, you've earned it after biking the bayou!

Biking the Bayou - NOLA to Pensacola

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