Monday 16th June 2025 Ingaray to Rivas
The guy packs up singing, maybe because I was itching to have a go, that would have cleared the country, never mind the bar, We went down for dinner very early just as everyone else was clearing off. I had everything on the vegetarian menu: soup, salad and fried vegetables, got to make the most out of having an option, probably all change tomorrow when we cross over to Nicaragua, will worry about that tomorrow. Relaxing evening once again only us staying a few beers and a bit of banter with the staff, ended up agreeing to have breakfast at 6 in the morning, me being asked if we could have it at 5:30, no way, but worth an ask.

Both of us like caged tigers in the morning waiting for the lovely lady to get the breakfast, always pushing it, but fair play she was game, started serving us way before six, so on the way just after 06:15, when there’s food around it does not take long for us to devour it, throwback to when we were all growing up, get in there quick, never close your eyes when saying grace, Graham would always pinch a potato and he was the good one!

So we are off, another exciting border crossing, by all accounts can be a bit hectic and leery, we will see, first we have to get there, maybe I should have looked at the route, seemed really hilly in the morning, came as a bit of a surprise, but nothing to to worry about. Really nice tree lined roads, like the roads through the middle of France, where the avenue of trees is endless, so green and pleasant, good riding, even if it is a bit uphill.

Just steady away, loving the countryside through the Guanacaste National Park, stunning scenery, birds chirping and monkeys lurking in the trees, screeching but never really visible, just watching a pair of old blokes riding through, could tell they was looking at us in awe, thinking they have never seen such fine looking guys, definitely not Australians I heard the main man say! then the younger one said, could we not eat the little one! Just me daydreaming again, thinking the juke box has stuck, needs a kick, when I woke up I was at the top of the little hill, how good is that. Now downhill all the way to Nicaragua, enjoying the downhill free ride, no such thing in reality, just trust the physics what goes up must come down, they all even out if you cycle enough.

Soon come to the little town La Cruz, stop in a little bar on the main road, lovely service, as they was only just opening when we stopped, even asked if we wanted a beer, with a weary smile I declined, as I need to be on my best behaviour on border crossing days, shame so settle for a coffee and a soft drink, then could see why they asked if we wanted a beer, some guys still left over from last night having a beer in the corner, nice.

Off we go with a drunken handshake to the guys getting over last night, bit light on the songs this morning, must be I am just a tadge concerned over the border crossing, I think I have read too many blogs, sure it will be fine just relax, as we carry on the descending. Soon hit the tail back of trucks, must be at least 4 miles from the border, Bingo mentions, not sure what’s going on, but we have not seen all these trucks today, just sail down the outside of them, can tell the border is getting close, people lurking about all over the place.

Obviously the crossing is being redeveloped, new border crossing facilities being built, but at the moment it is chaos, nearly as mad as the Port of Dover on a good day, at least they had some guys directing us, in and out of the traffic.

First go through the Costa Rica side, pay $10 exit fee, sure the girl was legit, well she had a nice smile and a little badge, then join the little queue, all done on Costa Rician side, then where, just follow the pedestrians, come to the Nicaraguan side, guy checks the passport makes sure we have an exit stamp, charges us $1, sure that’s not legit, but carry on and join the queue, not that bad, soon get to the desk, same sort of questions, where are you staying, phone number etc, just give them a smile and show them address on the phone, that seems to please them, well the $13 might of helped, but hey ho we are through, another country to explore, well first thing we have to collect the bikes, the other side of passport control, no worries just sneak around the back, chat to a couple of construction workers, they move their tower we get the bikes, all the while the security guys are busy doing nothing.

Stop for a beer or two at a little cafe place, once again so friendly, they run out of beer so not only does she go and get some more, she also changes over our money, at a better rate than we can get, so nice we have a couple of more beers, lovely.

Off we go into Nicaragua, hugging the lake of the same name, see the twin volcanoes on Ometepe island, very nice sight as we swirl down the a very similar avenue of trees, bit more relaxed now so not only are we animal watching again, a few little songs burst out of the jukebox of a brain I have, first one is “Dirty old Town” the Pogues version just because it came into my mind while we was having a beer at the border, all the people eking out a living, with a smile on their face:

I met my love by the gas works wall
Dreamed a dream by the old canal
I kissed my girl by the factory wall
Dirty old town, dirty old town

Then my favorite, being an old Blacksmith

I’m gonna make me a big sharp axe
Shining steel tempered in the fire
I’ll chop you down like an old dead tree
Dirty old town, dirty old town

Mate I am flying now, my head is spinning , Shane Patrick Lysaght MacGowan RIP man, a laureate of booze and beauty, man after my own heart, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Back to riding and loving the early stages of Nicaragua, all the songs of the Pogues come flooding back, think I may have to carry on riding, like everything we come to a little town and I have to start to concentrate again.

Bingo pulls up sharply at a restaurant on the side of the road, nice place, then I notice it is joined to a hotel, within 5 mins we have got beers, food and a room sorted, lovely lunch, then make our way up to the room, all good.

Good afternoon watching the mid afternoon rain storm, then a little walk around the town, watching a bit of baseball on the telly, next to the baseball stadium, it’s not cricket.

Good night