Woke 5 am, still didn’t get out until 7. We are so slow leaving in the mornings, though this morning it was more because we were socializing with Woody and Amy, and a couple of Appalachian Trail hikers also bunking at the Troutdale church hostel. We left all Gore-Texed up in a downpour and after a mild climb, we had a GLORIOUS miles-long descent into Damascus. There is a festival going on for AT hikers so it was packed. We spent 1:30 at a coffee shop getting biscuits and gravy, Nutella-stuffed French toast, and Americanos for breakfast, and some bagels and cream cheese, cookies, and a coke to snack on later on in the day. Today was all about getting to and hopefully over Hayter’s Gap climb - something like a 1500’ ascent in 3.5 miles. If we could get over that climb, it was a pretty easy finish to Elk Garden church, which has a nice hostel for cyclists. Well, we made it. VANESA IS A CHAMPION. I am so proud of her and how she tackles this journey, and she is getting so strong. And she’s carrying a dog too! Her bike is probably 20 lbs, maybe 25 lbs, heavier than mine and she just puts it in her lowest gear, puts her head down, and charges right up and over these hills. It isn’t always easy, and there have been tears and body aches, but she perseveres and is smiling a lot as we journey together. This really is a dream come true doing this with her! On the climb, only a minute from the top, I was going soooooo slow because it was super steep and I was tired of course, I rounded a bend and startled a big black bear standing in the middle of the road. It was awesome and scary, and I yelled at him and he scampered off but I kept yelling because I didn’t know if there were cubs or a carcass nearby she might want to protect. I yelled so much I bet she’ll be freaked out by humans for the rest of her life. Now we’re at the Elk Garden church hostel, having had a COLD outdoor shower, a terribly old toasted bagel with hot cream cheese (never get your bagel toasted if you’re not going to eat it for 8 hours), and washed our bike shorts and socks. It’s my birthday today, and it’s been a SPECIAL one. V put a lit candle in my breakfast English muffin with peanut butter and peanut M&Ms, and she’s been singing to me all day long on the bike.