We set the alarm for 430 to get up early and get the heck onto the road since we'd gone to bed before nightfall. Cave-in-Rock has tourist offices that are open 24 hours (thanks for the tip, convenience store lady) with bathrooms for the public so we made a quick trip there before getting onto the route. It was super beautiful riding in the rolling hills in the forest next to the Ohio River at dawn, before traffic, on a lightly-driven road anyway, though there were more and harder hills than expected (sense a theme here on this trip??). At the top of one particularly hard, short hill was Jenkins' Rest Stop, actually just some dude's front yard where he had super-generously placed for cyclists chairs for resting, a garden hose for filling water bottles, and electrical outlets to recharge phones. What a kind dude. Our friend Joel that we stayed with in Sebree told us later that morning that he'd stopped there shortly after we passed through and the guy who lived there actually came out of his house and gave him a bottle of cold, filtered water. People are really kind out here and it's refreshing to see that in such a time of political division and hatred in this country. We made it to Elizabethtown, close to 10 miles, and pulled into the only restaurant in town, and it was so dirty and gross that we only ordered coffee and didn't want to eat there. We chose to eat packaged crackers and nuts rather than have a hot breakfast when starving on the road after sleeping on the cement last night, if that tells you anything. There were about 6 people inside, locals clearly, dining and BS'ing, and only one dude working there, the cook/server (definitely not the cleaner!) so when I walked up toward the counter to ask for a coffee, one of the ladies dining asked me if I wanted coffee. When I answered "yes", she got up from her own meal, walked behind the counter, and started a new pot of coffee since none was brewing or available right then. She said "it's cool, I used to work here". So kind. And then when Vanesa walked in and sat down with Maui (on her bed under the table, like always), the lady got up again and actually poured a cup of coffee for Vanesa and took it to her, saying "I can always tell when a woman is in need of coffee". I was left to wait until the rest of the pot brewed and then she brought me a cup too. The server/cook (owner?) didn't ever come over, he just let her serve us coffee. Then our friend Joel passed by on his bike, saw us, and came in and sat with us. He did eat, and then, after a long diatribe by owner who finally showed up tableside to promote his opinions on politics and global warming without asking any of ours, and telling us about the three women in the last year locally that have murdered their husbands, we all left. Honestly, it's amazing that place stays open being as gross as it is and with such a disinterested, brusque guy running the show. After that, it was just another day of rolling hills and cool, windy weather. Vanesa loves the wind because it means it's not a hot day; me, I'd rather have some heat and no wind as I find headwinds demoralizing and exhausting. And that's what it was today. Up, down, up, down. Hills not so hard, but made harder with a 15 mile/hour wind blowing in your face that not only makes the uphills harder, but prevents you from getting any decent momentum on the downhills. We were in really remote country and the only two convenience stores for 30-ish miles were both shuttered (it's so sad to see so many places closed, I'm assuming it's because COVID killed them) and so we had to find a church with a water faucet to fill our bottles at one point. We had made a call to the Goreville Methodist Church last night and talked to the lady who organizes allowing cyclists inside to sleep in their hostel at night, and when we finally arrivedin Goreville at the end of a fairly long day, we were pooped. We shopped at the Dollar General (that's the grocery store we are finding out here, the best/biggest one, the only one that's not a convenience store - should we buy stock in Dollar General? It seems to be taking over America...) and waited for Pastor Rico (Enrico Esguerra) to open the doors for us. When we arrived, he was already there, with our friend Joel, and we all went in together and he showed us where the couches, bathrooms, laundry, and coffee/snacks were. So kind of these folks. Again, this is not a rich church, just one that knows hungry, tired, cold/hot, dirty cyclist are passing through and are in need of a place to stay in the land bereft of sleeping accommodations like motels or campgrounds. We enjoyed a night together with Joel of banter, terrible Mexican food a 2 block walk away, and a nice, hot shower. We washed our clothes all together in one big load, charged our devices, and went to sleep at 10 with the alarm set for 5 a.m. Hanging with Joel was nice and we exchanged numbers to keep tabs on each other down the road, or send each other warnings for safety/weather as needed. He's a 63-year-old retired cop from Virginia. Tomorrow is going to be a short day...Vanesa now completely broken phone (dead screen) is inoperable and we are going to be in a real town (Carbondale) so she can buy a new one, and so we can buy some Chamois Butter so we can continue to lubricate the nether regions that love to chafe when riding a bike a billion miles every day.