The only problem with cycling South in northern Portugal is that all the rivers run east to West, so that means there's multiple valleys to cross. After yesterday's big day of climbs, I knew today would be equally as tough.
The day started poorly. as I woke in a freezing Hobbit Hut with only cold running water to wash & shave in. I went in the town for breakfast and the nearby cafe only sold coffee, no food !
The owner directed me to the east to within a mile but when I got there the restaurant was closed, so I then doubled back cycled a mile back into town and eventually after a few false starts, found a restaurant doing breakfast.
But it was terribly slow and it would be after 10:00 o'clock before I started cycling and what a start? The first hill of the day would take me 1200 feet up again back to 3200ft elevation.
The legs felt good and I managed to climb the constant 8 to 9% gradient which was very pleasing after yesterday's exploits there were no after effects. A nice descent at the top took me past the lovely little village called Isna and then I took a sharp left turn, which I nearly missed into the village of Cunqueiro which was difficult as it was all cobbled and lumpy. I continued on and after 20 miles had a lovely view of a town called Chao du Galego which stands beneath a hugely impressive Cliff-face. Continuing downhill I eventually reached Foz do Cabrao and I knew the road back out of here was awful.
The town was all cobbled and as I entered it, the gradient went up to 10%, 12%, 15%.. Next I had to turn left and the hill just went crazy and 20% was showing on my Garmin as I struggled to even walk in my cleats. I knew I couldn't cycle up this and ended up pushing the bike for about a mile to the top of the hill as the gradient just didn't relent.
More ups and downs and I reached a town called Villa Velia de Rodao after 32 miles where I stopped for my lunch.
The town was really pretty sitting on the banks of the River Tagus, (the Teijo), but it had a huge blot on the landscape. There was a massive paper mill sitting on the river as well and the stench of Urea Formaldehyde was everywhere. After lunch I crossed the Tejo and completed the last big climb of the day.800 feet with no problems. At the top was a huge sign showing I was entering Alentejo and immediately the countryside was different. The mountains which had towered thousands of feet above me were mow hills about 500ft - then I spotted my first Oak tress, my first Stork, my first Olive Orchard and around me were those huge natural boulders that litter this part of Portugal and the adjacent western part of Spain where they call then Barruecos.
Before I knew it I was in the town of Nisa, which again had a horrible mile stretch of cobbled road, which was awful to ride on.
From Nisa I took quiet back road past the reservoir and onward to the Portalegre road with 12 miles into town to go. The ride into town was pretty straightforward down a straight road and as I reached town, there was a beautiful sunset.
And again I hit cobbles and the gradient went a bit crazy getting up to my hotel. So once again I've done. 6500 feet of climbing and I was well pleased with the day's efforts. Tomorrow's right will be much more tame through Alentejo.