Day 5 Sunday 19th January 2025 San Sebastian to Cerro Sombrero
Sunday bloody Sunday, here we go again, after a lovely days rest in San Sebastian, a tiny little hamlet on the Chile side of the border. Our host also called Sebastian hailed from Seveonoaks in Kent, with a Chilean mother he has lived here for 8 or so years. Really of all the place to live it’s like Dungeness for a thousand square miles, but he likes it, so who am I to say any different. Good guy though left us a packed lunch for Cerro Sombrero outside our room as we sneaked away just after 06:00 in the morning. Bingo’s plan that the wind is not so strong so let’s ride early, not what we normally do, but that’s what happens when you let him have a rest day he starts planning. The whole ethos of this tour is no plan!

We off set just after 6 with no breakfast – part of the plan. The first thing about this plan is that the wind’s still 35mph straight in your face, but me being too scared to mention it, I carry on regardless, maybe a film. We battle this wind for nearly four hours, crawling along at 6 / 7 mph, with every muscle in your body working, finally we come to the junction we have to turn left up to Cerro Sombrero, both of us collapsed on the side of the road, Bingo smiled that good I though it would take us 5 hours to get her and we done it in 3.75 hours, but to be honest I am knackered again, hey ho only 50 odd mile to go, I think to myself as I wrestle with a boiled egg, the shell nearly won, but I persevered and finally peeled the damned thing, few bits of chocolate my go-to thing when its to early for beer and I am as right as rain.

Low and behold our German friend Nicholas walked across the road, he had been sheltering in a culvert over there, he must have heard my argument with the boiled egg! Had a nice little chat, hopefully we will keep in touch, he did seem a bit disappointed that we was going to Cerro Sombrero, why not come with me and see the Penguins he said, Bingo just looked at him and said f* the penguins. Then a Russian girl turned up, she has been living in Bueno Aires for the last 3 years, loves her traveling, she was hitch-hiking around the local area and seen the f* penguins yesterday. Seem like a good way to travel in this wind. Fair play we all get up say our goodbyes and happy riding. Just getting my bike together the Russian girl is jumping into a wagon – good result,

So 50 odd miles to go, best get my mind in gear, we turn the corner and low and behold got the wind on my back, mate I am singing like a trouper here we go, sorry to say it only lasted for 20 mins but we both enjoyed it while it lasted. We both just sat in and pushed the ride out, sure the Guanacos gracefully jumping the fences and frolicking about where taking the mickey out of us, totally not graceful, stamping on the pedals trying to make the bikes go faster to no avail. Still Bingo’s plan so we had to keep going, finally pulled over after another two hour push, checked the water levels, obviously I still had two full bottles, so shared them out on the side of the road, first thing guy stops going the other way asks if we are Ok, Bingo say we need water, aqua, the guy says sorry and gives and gives him a cold Fanta, then the next car stops, we fill all the water bottles up have the customary photoshoot with a lovely Brazilian couple good people, we are getting so much support.

Only 25 mile to go my little head calculates possibly anther three to four hours riding in this wind, push on let the Tourettes take over from the singing for a while that will pass the time. Honestly I am loving this but its really difficult, we push on then see a sign only 16K to go around 10 miles, anyone can do that I say to myself.

Bingo and I share a little sweet, this is what its all about, over the din of the wind he shouts, just around the corner we turn left, the wind will be behind us for the last 6 or 7 miles, I can’t read my Garmin its covered in snot and dust just looks like a plate of spaghetti, so I have to believe him.

Wow the last 5 miles we just sat up and rolled 20 odd mph – felt good and good planning on Bingo’s part, digs right on the outside of the this small village Cerro Sombrero. Straight in within 5 minutes beer and relax, another tough day, but that’s what we signed up for.