Monday 26th May 2025 Bolivar to Ipiales (Colombia)
Happy Birthday Carl Moses, one of the original riders Durness – Dover 2012 all those years ago, have a great day mate.

Not much on the food front in the little town Bolivar, last night, tried to go back to the restaurant we hand lunch, but was closed! Ended up in a small place with no menu, just get what you are given, chicken and chips, though I managed to swap the chicken for eggs, while one of the customers in there tried to ply us with whiskey, not for us. Soon got out of there and back to the digs for a good nights sleep.

Managed to get the hostel owners to open the back gates for 6 in the morning, ready for another day riding with the added excitement of entering Colombia [remember the country is Colombia and Columbia is used for the cities in the USA and the province in Canada: Ed] and all the rigmarole of the border checks, can be a bit frustrating sometimes, lets see how they are today.

We leave dead on 6 in the morning, just light enough for us to creep out of the little town, heading for the border town Tulcan on the Ecuador side and Ipiales on the Colombian side. Not a great start for myself, got onto the main road heading North, first little climb felt a bit ill, ended up vomiting over the side of the road, all Bingo’s freshly prepared cereal and yogurt wasted, had a minute, felt ok, so not sure what that was all about, got going again, with no further issues, thankfully. Though a fair bit behind Bingo, never mind he will realise sooner or later, just plod on and enjoy.

Finally joined up with Bingo, little chat about stopping for a coffee and soft drink at the next available place, we were half way up the biggest climb of the day 12ish miles, however the gradient was not too bad, just keep the legs turning, pulled over in a little shack just outside San Pedro de Huaca, not the best, no coffee, weird soft drinks ended up with the soft drink and a local cordial thing, actually quite nice, blackberry I think, not sure what else it had in it in the way of performance enhancing supplements, but did the trick. Then the saga of trying to pay, we only had a few coins and the dear little old lady could not change a $20 note (thats her weekly takings), ended up getting a sub of $1 from a generous couple who had just sat down, said thanks and off we went. The last section of the climb went well as the blackberry drink kicked in, soon at the submit with a lovely vista over the border area, very green and neatly cultivated.

Now its just a ride into the border town, thankfully we bypassed Tulcan, headed straight for the Ecuadorian immigration, you cant miss it, Buses, trucks, cars all over the place, people milling around the usual chaos. Managed to ask a border guard with a semi automatic rifle which way to immigration, nice as pie he pointed us in the right direction, all done on the Ecuadorian side. Cycle over the bridge then into the Colombian side, just as bad this side, but found the immigration office, all sorted with 10 mins, both feel relieved. Just a matter of riding up a little hill into Ipiales, no hostel booked, but read a blog last night that said the “Royal Hostel” was good, loads of hot water! So that where we headed.

Found the place, booked in 80,000 Col pesos, bit of a shock, but eventually works out to about £15 for the night, straight in then out again for food, found a little bistro in the plaza big plate of pasta each, then back to hostel for a lovely hot shower, we wish. It was freezing, so much for the blogs!

Bingo braved the cold shower, I was having none of it, though I could smell myself a touch, eventually it got too much, was going to have to have a shower. Cunning plan though (Baldrick’s back on the scene) the bloke on the reception desk owes me 20,000 peso from when I paid the bill, he does not speak English, sure I can make him understand, “la ducha no se calienta” had to say it a few times, but he eventually agreed to come and see. He fiddled with the taps, went and got some tools and hear we go hot water. Had a shave and a shower to celebrate, feel brand new again.