Friday 30th May 2025 El Bordo to Popayán
Another school boy error last night, so busy messing about in the pool and soaking up the Butlins atmosphere, we forgot to ask what time the restaurant closed, hence when we finally got our act together it was closed, could have been a disaster, but the bar manager came to the rescue and orders a takeaway meal for us, thankfully. You would have thought we would have got the hang of this travelling thing by now, but always come up with a curved ball, just to make sure we stay on our toes, cant be getting complacent.

Up at the crack of dawn again breakfast all sorted and we are ready to way before 6, Bingo takes a recording of all the birds singing and chirping outside the chalet, then inadvertently deletes it while we are trying to get the night watchman to open the gates, still on the road before 6 so all is good.

All being well today maybe the last big climbing day, for a while, we are heading north again to a place just outside, Popayán , bit of a murky humid start to the day, as we carry on through the tree lined roads, got the Green Day song rattling around my head “Boulevard of Broken Dreams” not sure where that come from but a good song to blast out at 6 in the morning when no one can hear or for that matter understand me so let’s have it. Gets me through the early morning stiffness loosen up my legs and fill my lungs, as the road is a bit up and down, nice little descents, then tough short climbs, that’s how it’s going to be until we hit the two big climbs of the day, first one a ten mile jaunt, four mile respite, then straight into another seven mile climb, good thing though when they are done, it just goes back to the lumpy road and no big climbs.

Just before we start the first climb stop for a Colombian coffee and soft drink, the coffee is definitely getting better, not a big coffee drinker, but like a strong black coffee, with loads of sugar, gets me fired up to take on the world or mountains. Off we go, quite a tight road with some big trucks, so have to keep your wits about you, to be fair the truck drivers are excellent, they appreciate us going into the gutter to let them past, always give them a wave and they respond with a little beep and a wave, always gives you an extra boost, bit like an overdrive.
The climb is fairly constant, except for the switch backs, they get really steep, makes me work a bit harder and the songs stop on the steep bits for some reason, just over half way up, we pull over, the Garmin is telling us to take a little track to the right, does not seem a good idea, but always full of bright ideas, I just say why don’t we have a drink in the road side cafe and discuss the options, just wanted a rest, no way I was going up the unmade track, Bingo had the same thoughts, but still had another soft drink. Not sure if we made the right choice as it ramped up just for a mile or so, no songs just pumping on the pedals, soon got over the little bump as the track joined the road again, least it gave us food for thought, I wonder if it would have been better, who knows there was no way we was going back. Great to get over the crest of the mountain at a small village called Rosas, with a nice little cafe on the side of the road, normally powered on through, but never on touring bikes, you have to feed the engine.

Enjoyed the little downhill bit before we do it all over again, this time though it’s only seven miles and a bit of a gentle climb, same again power up the climb, then have a break at the top, the weather closed in halfway up, thought about putting on a rain jacket but was already wet, so just carried on in the sexy rain, better stop this time, as it’s beer time, well that can be anytime on this tour, but finished the main climbs of the day, so need to celebrate and it’s a Friday, so no work tomorrow! Bingo chose the right bar, big comfy seats with a chatty clientele, even the guy from the tyre place next door joined in, had all the kids practising their English, really think they should be teaching Bingo and I the Spanish, maybe they think we are too old, they are not wrong.

Still had just over 20 miles to go so had to call it a day after 3 little bottles, not great leaving on an odd number but Bingo is in charge today and had made the decision which is final. Off we go just a straight road, with a few little bumps into Popayán, which turns out to be a busy little place, but skittled through it with ease, straight to the hostel, which we had not booked! Turned up like two soaked rats, but nice as pie got us booked in and even gave us a beer while they got the room ready, thinking they know us too well.

Really nice hot shower is always a bonus, wash the kit, but I’m not sure it will get dry, if it’s not dry, I will sleep in it, like an excited school kid, it will dry then. Bingo ventured out in the rain to get some late lunch, half a pizza and chips washed down with a few cans, feeling great, ready for a big meal later.