100.5 miles today and I am toast! I gave the thought to trying for Cody, it is mostly downhill from here however I am out here to enjoy this, and pushing another 30 miles just didn’t feel like it would still be type 2 fun. An early rise, and breakfast in Cody will do me just fine.
I was up at 5:20 in West Yellowstone and at the bakery by 7 when it opened its doors. I talked to a CDT Nobo who was awaiting a shuttle and told her to definitely hit the Llama ranch on her way. Somehow she hadn’t heard of it yet. She has a ways to go before it’s on her radar and I think she said she was resupplying in Helena, so I think she will hit it.
I suspect that Denise and Rebecca finished their ride today, with Denise reuniting with her Husband Casey, who drove across the country to meet her, and Rebecca with enough time to find a bike shop in Jackson to box her bike for her flight home on the 8th. Kudos to both of them. I did have a message from them that they made it to Lakeview on Thursday with Rocky (Park City Ut) so they definitely were on schedule to finish today.
Back to my day. My visit with the Rangers in West Yellowstone told me that if the shoulder wasn’t safe enough then I should take the lane. I entered Yellowstone through the gate and the first 12 miles in to the Madison Junction had a very decent shoulder. Speed limit 45, people driving faster of course I decided that if my sight line was clear ahead, then when my radar alerted me to traffic approaching then I would wave them to go wide, and many did. If my sight line was blocked or if there was oncoming traffic then I waved my hand up and down to alert them to slow the fuck down, and most did. Some did not, and some of those were fucking hauled campers.
Next section North was a smaller shoulder, so the same tactics yielded the same results. I pulled off to see the sights and grab some images, because I did in fact want to see the sights that Yellowstone had on offer. The geysers, the blowholes, the hot springs and any wildlife happenings. The later didn’t start until well into the section where a meadow of Bison did present itself. They weren’t that far off the road, and while I was watching, there was a couple who started to leave the road to get closer. I shouted at them to stay on the road and they listened.
At the next junction I turned East to cut across the park on a route I did not see 44 years ago and included a hefty climb but did have a 2.5 mile 1 way alternate called Virginia Cascades. The shoulder was still adequate and I maintained my behavior and for the most part was respected. Hardy anyone took the alternative route and I enjoyed that mostly to myself!! The cascades were gorgeous however I spotted the dark clouds coming my way and I knew I was going to get hit. Back on the main road, it still climbed and I could only go so fast until it leveled out and I tried like hell to outrun the approaching storm. I failed. At least it was a strong tailwind!! The first to hit was hail about the size of peas. I donned my rain jacket (Yellow) and rode it until it turned to rain with thunder and lightning and then I found a safe place to pull off and wait it out. 10 minutes later and I was moving again, mostly to stay warm and I did have to stop again to put some gloves on as my hands were getting quite cold. Soon i was downhilling to Canyon Village where I stopped to dry out in the sun and ingest calories which I needed badly. Chatted some folks up while I dried out “Your going where?!?! New Jersey!?!? Well God bless you.
Back on the road, I was now heading South towards the Lake past the great Yellowstonę canyon and this section had no shoulder, so I moved to the middle of the lane and took it. Whenever a pullout on my side of the road presented itself I took it and waited for it to clear before moving on again. So, the deal with taking the lane meant that I didnt want to be too much of a burden so I burned some matches trying too maintain a decent pace, but since the route was against the wind and against the flow of the Yellowstone River there were times when my pace was pretty slow, and some of the arseholes pulled the unsafe passing just before the oncoming traffic came upon me. At least 5 motherfuckers hauling campers or RVs with attached cars passed me and started to move back into my lane before their tail ends were fully cleared, thus getting my middle finger waved them. I showed them!!! Assholes.
This went on until I finally came to my left turn which was the East Entrance road. I stopped at fishing bridge service area and caloried up some more, and found a place to lie down and rest my legs. Sylvan pass lay ahead, and I needed some rest before tackling it.
The East Entrance road was a lot less traveled and while the wind started favorably, the road follows the lake for 6 miles before veering off and ascending Sylvan Pass to the East. Those sections into the South around the lake were into the wind and I was very slow there. At least the shoulder was adequate so I didn’t have to play the take the lane game again. I stopped as often as I needed to and finally I reached Sylvan Pass and a 7% descent for 5 miles before finally exiting the park. Just down the road was a lodge at about mile 87, short of my 100 goal, but they had vacancies so I asked. $255 and that didn’t include food, so I declined and hopped back on the bike. There were 4 more lodges but they all said “No Vacancies” and I set out to reach Rex Hale as that would be right around the 100 mile mark. The road was very well shouldered and descended nicely most of the way. As I said, the thought of trying for Cody was tempting, but I am glad I stopped. I found out via the camp host Tom, that my lifetime senior park pass reduces my $20 fee to $10! I overpaid in some other USFS sites!! The wind made erecting the tent a chore, but I got it well anchored and it’s sitting there awaiting me as I type. For dinner I had Pasta Primavera that Denise gave me and though the directions implied 10 minutes I found that it needed 30 to actually not be crunchy. Funny, none of the car-drawn campers recognized my need for a beer, so it’s a dry night tonight!
Tomorrow I need to make another 100 miles, but it begins by first getting to Cody for a second breakfast. First breakfast will be coffee and maybe a protein bar.
Cheers