An enjoyable breakfast this morning from Eric and Anne Lise, supplemented by oats and muesli to help power up the hills today. It included 3 of Eric’s homemade jams from home grown fruit and his freshly baked brioche. Today’s ride was always going to be tough for us, not helped by the weather forecast - It was supposed to be overcast and with possible showers. The day started with a climb out of Prades on a minor road, with not much traffic. We could see Prades for a long time, with Canigou in the background, though it was getting smaller and smaller. Helpfully there were road markers every km to tell you how far the top of the col was, the current altitude and the slope for the next km. Note the symbol of the four stripes on yellow background - this signifies Pays Catalan - the area annexed to France in the 1600’s. All major signs are in French and Catalan (on the entrance to a town the sign on the left is the Catalan name, on the right the French name). According to a 14th-century legend, the Catalan flag dates back from the 9th century, when the four red bars were drawn, as an act of gratitude, on Wilfred I the Hairy's (Count of Barcelona) golden shield by king Charles the Bald's fingers drenched with blood from the Count's war wounds prior to Wilfred's death in 897 during the siege of Barcelona! The day got colder and the (usually head-) wind stronger, with occasional spits of rain - luckily no heavier. Very rugged and remote country, dotted with small villages and ruined castles. We plugged on through to Caudies, through a spectacular gorge to our lunch stop. This was a parking and picnic area for walkers heading off on the numerous walking trails. It had the advantage of being sheltered out of the wind although it was quite cold so we didn’t linger. Intriguingly we passed a bike rider with panniers investigating the road side with a pick!? At Caudies en Fenouilledes we joined the main road. We decided to take the main road to avoid extra climbing today - we passed the castle at Puilaurens, and had the fabulous experience of cycling through the incredibly narrow Defile de Pierre Lys. Quillan is small and quaint - possibly the best years have been, or maybe are to come. Prosperous when hat making was the main industry here, in the years when everyone wore a hat. Since it is our 35th wedding anniversary we went out and enjoyed a delicious meal.