Chumphon - Nong Yai Royal Project - Thung Wua Laen Beach A magic day on the bike, following the meandering canal past colourful fishing villages to a stunning white beach. Rolling out of Chumphon, we quickly found ourselves on quiet rural roads with almost no traffic. A highlight, the Nong Yai Royal Development Project, created after the devastating 1989 Chumphon Floods. A huge canal now carries excess water to the sea, and suspension bridges loop across the reservoir and small islands. Deer were happily wallowing in the water waiting for feeding time. The route by the canal, wound through endless palms — coconut, oil palm, and nipa palms growing in brackish waters. Fishing shacks and vibrant boats dotted the waterways, giving the ride a relaxed coastal farming feel. Classic Thailand moments kept popping up along the road. Two small kids sitting on the roadside greeted us with huge smiles and bright green popsicles. Later, a herd of water buffalo wandered along a canal — several stopping mid-journey for a swim — while the farmer rode past on his motorbike with a friendly wave. Coffee came at Mee’s Cafe, where the owner moved from Bangkok three years ago and is now building a house next door so her 84-year-old mum and 90-year-old aunt can move down and live with her. The riding itself was excellent — smooth roads, occasional bike lanes, and so little traffic we mostly used the main road. Even the dogs seemed to be taking the day off. The reward was rolling into Thung Wua Laen Beach, a stretch of white sand and sea breeze that immediately convinced us this would not be a one-night stop.