Serdar Hotel has seen better days.  We decide to breakfast elsewhere – and drive around – to eatery after eatery closed.  Finally find somewhere.  I have meat patties (needed to chew little to minimise taste before swallowing quickly), but reasonable coffee.  Then drive back the way we'd come yesterday evening (essentially the only way – the paved highway between Ashgabat and Turkmenbshy) to Bereket.  Set off at 10.30 with a kind following wind for the first 30 or so km.  Up very slight incline, again through flat desert scrubland.  Overcast but not wet.  An installation of modern greenhouses the first sign of cultivation.  Two or three extensive fields of young wheat followed – but nearly all land unused because – I suppose – unusable. At km 52 turned right off highway into mighty headwind along 6km deteriorated tarmac road to the Paraw Bibi shrine.  Paraw village a collection of single storey decent-size dwellings, many a bit run-down.  15 minute climb up long steps to shrine – the location of where the mountain had hidden the fair Bibi from foreign predators.  A line of head-scarfed women, some carrying babes, doggedly wended their way to the small shrine; a one room domed building, not ancient, in which an Imam sat recounting prayers and blessings. On the way down – the call to prayer from Paraw village washed gently over the landscape.