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The ride covered 31.4 km with 707 m of ascent and 715 m of descent, set along a stepped rolling profile with repeated short off-road efforts building into a longer upland return across the higher ground of Apokóronas. Moving time totalled 1:53:45, with an ascent time of 1:10:21 and descent in 0:41:04. Gradients reached +25.4% on the steeper off-road ramps and –18.3% on the faster descents back towards the coast. Maximum speed recorded was 56.2 km/h, averaging 16.6 km/h across rough limestone tracks, compacted earth, olive grove paths, broken stone climbs, dry soil, loose gravel, narrow ridge tracks, and tarmac linking sections, with approximately 70% off-road. It was a stepped and cumulative route — repeated short efforts early, longer sustained movement later, with terrain constantly dictating pace and line choice.
Climb profile (summary):
8 climbs | Total structured effort
Longest: C7 – 0.9 km @ 5.3%
Steepest: C1 – 25.4%
Final: C8 – 0.7 km @ 6.6%
Climb profile (C1–Cn):
C1: 0.4 km | -4.7% | +25.4%
C2: 0.7 km | -3.2% | +15.6%
C3: 0.4 km | -8.8% | +17.3%
C4: 0.5 km | -3.1% | +11.8%
C5: 0.5 km | -5.2% | +15.4%
C6: 0.5 km | +0.7% | +7.1%
C7: 0.9 km | -2.1% | +12.2%
C8: 0.7 km | 0.0% | +11.4%
The ride began in Kokkino Chorio beneath low morning light and a rising temperature already beginning to harden the surface dust. The opening section was fast tarmac movement towards Plaka, not used here for leisure riding but for rapid transition into the broken agricultural terrain that still surrounds the villages above Souda Bay. The road itself follows modern alignment, but the line of movement remains old. The settlements connected by the route — Kokkino Chorio, Plaka, Asproulianá, Gavalochóri, Vámos, Kefalás — were linked long before asphalt arrived. The wartime maps produced by 512 Field Survey Company, Royal Engineers, recorded these relationships carefully because movement across Apokóronas depended upon them.
The wartime survey teams worked under operational pressure between 1940 and 1943 using aerial photography, pre-war Greek mapping, local reconnaissance, triangulation, and direct field correction. The resulting 1:50,000 sheets were military tools, not decorative maps. Every contour, mule path, bridge, cistern, ridge track, olive terrace, and seasonal river crossing existed because it mattered to movement. In Crete, terrain dictated everything. Vehicles were channelled onto limited roads, while infantry, resistance fighters, messengers, and shepherds continued to rely upon the older foot and donkey routes crossing the slopes between villages.
Leaving the tarmac below Plaka, the ride dropped beneath Clue Cave through the olive groves. The surface immediately changed from hard road to broken agricultural line: loose limestone, embedded stone, wheel ruts, and exposed bedrock beneath old olive terraces. This section remains structurally similar to what appears on the wartime maps — not a formal road but a secondary movement line connecting cultivated ground and water access between small settlements.
The Aspro Tracks towards Gavalochóri carried the same pattern. These are not recreational trails. They are functional access routes widened over time by tractors and agricultural vehicles but still retaining the underlying geometry of older paths. The wartime maps consistently differentiate between metalled roads, cart tracks, and footpaths. Riding these sections today reveals why that distinction mattered. Surface quality changes constantly within metres. A line that appears wide and fast can immediately narrow into exposed stone or washed-out drainage cuts.
The ascent of Plague Hill began abruptly. The climb is short but steep in places, with loose rock over compacted soil and repeated traction changes under power. Looking west from the higher points, the structure of Apokóronas becomes clear: ridge after ridge, folded ground, broken visibility, small cultivated basins, and connecting valleys leading towards the White Mountains. From a military perspective, the area remains compartmentalised terrain. Observation is interrupted repeatedly by folds in the ground, olive groves, and ridge systems.
The Roller Coaster section followed — repeated rises and drops over rough off-road terrain where rhythm matters more than outright speed. The wartime maps show many of these lines as minor tracks or intermittent paths. Some no longer exist. Others survive almost unchanged. Riding them demonstrates that the old movement network was not designed for efficiency in the modern sense. It was designed around water, shelter, livestock movement, field access, and terrain survivability.
The off-road climb to Prophet Elijah rose steadily across dry stone and loose gravel. Small shrines and churches occupy many of the dominant high points in Crete. Prophet Elijah chapels especially tend to sit on ridges or summits with broad visibility across the surrounding terrain. These locations often served multiple functions historically: religious, navigational, social, and observational.
Brian’s Climb followed immediately afterwards. This section is direct, steep, and technical in places, with sharp ramps over fractured limestone requiring controlled power delivery and careful line selection. The climb gains height rapidly before reconnecting with the broader upland network around Douliana Cross Roads.
From there the route accelerated into Vámos for coffee and a reiki at Macky’s.
During the German occupation, Vámos remained strategically important because it sat astride the inland movement routes linking the coast to the higher ground and the southern escape corridors.
After coffee the ride changed character again.
The ascent onto Vámos Ridge and then Litsarda Ridge moved into older agricultural terrain where the modern road network begins to thin and the older movement system reappears more clearly. Dry stone boundaries, shepherd tracks, terrace lines, and hidden connectors run through the folds of the hillsides. On the wartime maps these areas appear dense with minor paths because the military surveyors understood that movement on Crete rarely followed a single linear route.
The Stone Wall Track marked the transition into the upper wooded section.
Then came the Enchanted Forest.
The name is modern rider terminology, but the terrain itself is old. The route passes through dense tree cover along narrow earth and stone tracks enclosed by dry walls, oak growth, pine cover, and heavy vegetation. Light levels change constantly beneath the canopy. Surface moisture remains longer here than in the exposed olive groves below, producing darker soil, exposed roots, compressed leaf litter, and hidden embedded rock.
On the wartime maps the area appears not as empty woodland but as a broken network of minor paths and agricultural boundaries. Looking closely at the 1:50,000 sheets, the continuity becomes obvious. The modern rider is not travelling through untouched countryside. He is moving through an inherited landscape shaped by centuries of use.
Many of the present tracks align closely with the wartime plotting because they occupied practical terrain corridors that could not easily be improved elsewhere. Ridge shoulders remain ridge shoulders. Drainage lines remain drainage lines. Easier gradients remain easier gradients. The old surveyors recorded what the terrain itself permitted.
Inside the forest section, movement becomes quieter and more controlled. Speed drops naturally. Visibility shortens. Corners tighten. The bike moves between exposed limestone shelves, root systems, and narrow compressed lines worn by decades of local agricultural passage. In several places the route appears almost recessed into the ground itself, as though the repeated movement of people, animals, and machinery gradually pressed the line deeper into the hillside.
This is where the wartime maps become especially important.
The maps are not simply historical artefacts. They remain terrain documents. Riding through the Enchanted Forest while comparing the plotted wartime tracks to the surviving routes demonstrates remarkable continuity across eighty years. Some paths shown on the maps have vanished beneath scrub or private enclosure. Others survive almost exactly where the Royal Engineers plotted them.
The significance is practical rather than romantic.
Terrain dictates movement.
That was true for shepherds, villagers, German patrols, resistance couriers, SOE personnel, mule trains, and modern E-MTB riders alike.
Leaving the forest, the route moved through Kefalás, Palelóni, and Drapanós before returning to Kokkino Chorio. The final section combined faster village linking roads with remaining broken tracks between settlements, closing the route back onto the same coastal ridge system from which it began.
By the end of the ride the pattern was unmistakable. The old lines still hold because the terrain still holds. Roads improve. Surfaces change. Villages expand. Tracks widen or collapse. But the fundamental movement corridors across Apokóronas remain largely the same as those recorded on the wartime maps produced more than eighty years ago.
| By: | Alan E-MTBCRETE |
| Started in: | Κρήτη, GR |
| Distance: | 31.4 km |
| Selected: | 31.4 km |
| Elevation: | + 704 / - 708 m |
| Moving Time: | 01:51:24 |
| Page Views: | 1 |
| Departed: | May 10, 2026, 8:02 am |
| Starts in: | Κρήτη, GR |
| Distance: | 31.4 km |
| Selected distance: | 31.4 km |
| Elevation: | + 704 / - 708 m |
| Max Grade: | |
| Avg Grade | |
| Cat | |
| FIETS | |
| VAM | |
| Ascent time | |
| Descent time | |
| Total Duration: | 02:36:49 |
| Selection Duration: | 9409 |
| Moving Time: | 01:51:24 |
| Selection Moving Time: | 01:51:24 |
| Stopped Time: | 00:45:25 |
| Calories: | 615 |
| Max Watts: | |
| Avg Watts: | 92 |
| WR Power | |
| Work | |
| Max Speed: | 55.9 kph |
| Avg Speed: | 16.9 kph |
| Pace: | 00:04:59 |
| Moving Pace: | 00:03:32 |
Best format for turn-by-turn directions on modern Garmin Edge Devices
Best format for turn by turn directions on Edge 500, 510. Will provide true turn by turn navigation on Edge 800, 810, 1000, Touring including custom cue entries. Great for training when we release those features. Not currently optimal for Virtual Partner.
Useful for uploading your activity to another service, keeping records on your own computer etc.
Useful for any GPS unit. Contains no cuesheet entries, only track information (breadcrumb trail). Will provide turn by turn directions (true navigation) on the Edge 705/800/810/1000/Touring, but will not have any custom cues. Works great for Mio Cyclo. Find GPS specific help in our help system.
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