This morning's ride explored one of the most distinctive features of the White Mountains: the mitato, a traditional Cretan shepherds' stone hut. Starting at 378 metres above sea level, the route climbed steadily to a maximum elevation of 1,147 metres before returning along the same mountain track. The ride covered 23.9 km, with 828 metres of ascent and 828 metres of descent. Moving time was 2 hours, with an elapsed time of 3 hours 20 minutes, reflecting frequent stops for photography, observation and examination of the mitato. Maximum speed reached 38.5 km/h, while the average moving speed was 11.9 km/h. Approximately 95% of the route followed unsealed shepherds' tracks, with the remaining distance on tarmac connecting Ramni and Kares. The steep gradients, loose surfaces and remote location make this a demanding E-MTB mountain ride. Climb Profile The ride climbed almost 770 metres over approximately 12 kilometres, beginning on tarmac from Ramni to Kares before joining the unsealed shepherds' track. From Kares the ascent followed the western side of the Gournes Valley through mature cypress woodland into the high mountain grazing country. Gradients increased steadily towards the upper section, reaching a maximum of 16.8%, before arriving at the mitato approximately 100 metres before the shepherds' track ends. Descent Profile The return followed the same shepherds' track back towards Kares. The loose limestone surface, exposed bends and sustained gradients required careful speed control throughout the descent. Beyond Kares, the final section returned on tarmac to Ramni, completing a ride that combined demanding mountain terrain with outstanding views across the Gournes Valley, the White Mountains and the north coast. The Mitato Among the most characteristic buildings of the White Mountains is the mitato. From a distance it appears deceptively simple: a low circular stone building with a corbelled roof. Yet this modest structure represents centuries of adaptation to one of Crete's most demanding mountain environments. The word mitato derives from the Byzantine Greek μιτάτο, itself originating from the Latin metatum, meaning a place of encampment or lodging. Over time, the term came to denote the seasonal shepherds' huts and cheesemaking shelters of the Cretan mountains. Unlike permanent village houses, a mitato was built for seasonal occupation. During the warmer months shepherds moved their flocks onto the mountain pastures, living for extended periods at high altitude while producing traditional mountain cheeses, particularly graviera, with mizithra made from the remaining whey. The mitato provided shelter from wind, rain, snow and the intense summer sun, while nearby stone enclosures protected sheep and goats overnight. Their construction required considerable skill. Built almost entirely from locally gathered limestone, each successive ring of stones projects slightly inwards until the roof closes without the use of timber or mortar. The thick stone walls moderate temperature throughout the year, keeping the interior relatively cool in summer and retaining warmth during colder weather. Many surviving examples remain structurally sound after generations of continuous use. Mitata are found principally in the White Mountains, where transhumant pastoralism shaped both the economy and the landscape. Families often retained customary rights to particular grazing areas, passing them through successive generations. The huts therefore formed part of a wider pastoral system that included grazing grounds, seasonal routes, springs, sheepfolds and traditional knowledge of mountain weather. For generations, shepherds' tracks have provided access from Kares into the Gournes Valley and onwards to the high summer grazing grounds. The track followed on today's ride forms part of that long-established pastoral network. Although now used by shepherds, walkers and mountain bikers, its primary purpose has changed little. It remains the practical route by which livestock, equipment and supplies reached the mitata scattered across these mountains. Today many mitata remain in use, although changing agricultural practices and declining numbers of mountain shepherds have reduced their importance. Others stand abandoned, slowly returning to the landscape from which they were built. Even when no longer occupied, they remain visible evidence of a pastoral tradition that shaped the White Mountains for centuries. During the Second World War these isolated buildings acquired an additional role. Their remoteness made them valuable places of refuge for members of the Cretan resistance, Allied soldiers evading capture and officers of the Special Operations Executive. Patrick Leigh Fermor, Stanley Moss and George Psychoundakis all describe periods spent in or around mountain shepherds' huts during operations in the White Mountains. Although every mitato has its own history, together they formed part of the hidden geography that enabled resistance to survive in the mountains. I have ridden this route on several occasions, returning because this particular mitato is far more than an isolated stone shelter. It represents centuries of pastoral life, remarkable vernacular engineering and, during the occupation of Crete, an important element of the island's resistance landscape. This particular mitato became known among members of the Special Operations Executive as "The Beehive." Readers wishing to explore its wartime significance in greater depth may also enjoy my earlier ride report, Escape from "The Beehive" – SOE Hideout, Gournes, which follows the story of this remarkable refuge. Komoot route: https://www.komoot.com/tour/2428660343?ref=aso&t_s=referral&t_cid=route_share Standing beside the mitato, overlooking the amphitheatre of the Gournes Valley and surrounded by the high limestone peaks of the Lefka Ori, it becomes clear that these buildings are far more than examples of vernacular architecture. They are enduring expressions of how generations of Cretans adapted to the mountains, using local materials, inherited knowledge and practical skill to create shelters that remain part of the living landscape today. They remind us that the history of Crete is written not only in its famous monuments and battlefields, but also in the quiet structures that continue to watch over the high places of the island.