I think two nights in Tirana helped me to rejuvenate. I got a haircut to better fit in with Albanians. Bike Point Albania fixed my bike problems: loose cassette and rear hub; they repacked the bearings, tightened the cassette, and replaced the shifter cable and housing. It feels really good to have a bike that rides and shifts smoothly. I forgot to mention that a week ago, the Alaskans gave good advice to help me fix the shifting mechanism; it was slipping and wouldn’t always engage to downshift. I found the fix online: open it up and blast it with WD-40, a can of which was available from the rafting camp host. I’m staying within the walls of an old Roman fortress, directly adjacent to the Roman road to Byzantium, Via Egnatia (then the trading post of Mansio Scampa, now the city of Elbasan). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_Egnatia?wprov=sfti1#