An undemanding day of cycling - nearly all downhill - despite a strong headwind and bouts of heavy rain. Through the ravine bottom carved over millennia by the Radika River - the rock cliff sides sheer above us on both sides, sometimes opening up a touch into gorgeous mature mixed forest. At about km29, we turned off & steeply up narrow hairpin bends to Bigorski Monastery. As we toiled up the last few hundred yards - monks' chanting floated over us. Approaching the Monastery there were a lot of cars, once there there were more still. Maybe a hundred or more parked higgeldy-piggeldy outside the main Monastery walls in front of a large multistorey annex (built beautifully in timber and stone in a style sympathetic to the main monastery buildings)which we guessed to be the accommodation we hadn't managed to book. Walking up along the wide stone-paved path through the monastery gate - we could see a complex in immaculate condition, the patterned green, fawn and grey building blocks clean as if constructed this Millennium rather than a thousand years ago. Someone has spent a great deal of money on restoration. The Orthodox Easter service was in full throat - the monks chanting & prayers amplified by loudspeakers high over the courtyard. Dozens of people milled around the church door, waiting for a chance to get inside a glittering candle-lit space already packed with standing congregants. Those exiting would do so walking backwards and genuflecting. We managed to slip in briefly at the very back. A feast for the eyes & ears. Over the heads of the congregation - we could see & hear several monks conducting the service from the front; not hidden behind an iconostasis. Colourful frescoes covered the walls, gold-framed icons the pillars, multiple elaborate highly-polished brass (I think, possibly gold?) chandeliers hung - from each of their many arms a lit candle cast a twinling light. On along further wooded valleys to the unremarkable town of Debar.