A fine day of cycling - on good roads, along the Black Drin river and reservoirs in steep-sided valleys clad with oak, birch & conifer woods. The heavy rain in the first part of the morning cleared - and we pedalled along happily. After about 25km, we stopped at a riverside roadside café. There, cycling in the other direction, we met a young German couple. They had come up from Greece and Albania - had three more months of cycling ahead of them, and rather than having a planned route or fixed destination - made up their way as they went along. They carried camping gear but even so travelled lighter than us. They spoke warmly of the beautiful Albanian road from Korçë south to Leskovik, and then west along the banks of the Vjosë River (the only un-dammed river left in Eurpoe - they said). We continued on to Struga and checked into what turned out to be a nice AirBnB flat (in an ugly low-rise modern apartment block). We were shown round with minute detail by the owner's proud father Besnick - a retired English teacher - and his wife (they assumed us to be a couple!). We'd selected the flat in good part because it boasted a washing machine - and put in mounds of smelly cycling kit - before setting off in search of lunch. The centre of Struga on a Saturday afternoon crowded by locals shopping, promenading and eating out (the cafés and restaurants were mostly pretty full) . The rain returned intermittently. During one heavy burst, we were thankfully inside a restuaurant (The Antika) were the surly waiter made us feel unwelcome (perhaps he had a thing against foreigners). The rain cleared and we walked further - and found ourselves at a football ground where Struga and Gostivari were about to play. Several hundred supporters milled around, sat, chatted, smoked and ate sun-flower seeds on low banks of seats either side of the pitch - and were quite quiet; not a lot of cheering or booing. A strongly contested match played hard (Struga had a man sent off in the first half for a dangerous tackle) but mostly in good spirits. Andrew discovered later that these are the top two sides in the Macedonian league. Tomorrow we plan to cycle around Lake Ohrid.