Rocky's Ride Detailed Travel Log Day 5: 07/08/24 Wild Camping near Oase - Solitaire 69 km I woke up with an incredibly sore body and scratchy throat. My head-cold and the heavy cardio load on my body was really taking its toll. I popped a couple of painkillers and after a simple breakfast of overnight oats soaked in a water bottle, I packed up my tent and hit the road. As incredible as wild camping is, it comes with its own set of challenges—especially after a long, hard day's ride. Cooking, finding water, setting up, and breaking camp all take extra energy. Given the choice, I’d almost always opt for a bed over my tent. But the truth is, my most memorable nights in Namibia have been those spent wild camping. I chose this route specifically to immerse myself in the wild and truly experience the raw beauty of the Namib. Kobie Krüger, in All Things Wild and Wonderful, perfectly captures the essence of solitude: "There is something about solitude... that lets one discover the simple goodness of being." Sitting outside my tent with Rocky asleep in my lap, gazing at the stars and listening to the wind rustle through the thorn trees, I found pure peace—fully connected to myself and the world around me. When you cycle and wild camp, you become a part of the desert. It clings to you—the dust fills every crevice, and your salt-stained clothes tell the story of every hard-earned kilometre. You feel the rhythm of the gravel beneath you. The sand has its moods: some days, it fights you, forcing your muscles to ache and your legs to pump like pistons. Other days, with a tailwind, the ride becomes effortless, almost like the desert is guiding you forward Solitaire had been a beacon that was calling me since my 1st day on my bike. A veritable Oasis in the desert. My girlfriend's father , George Breeze, was kind enough to drive me from South Africa to Walvis bay. My friend hinted that my father in law really must not like me if he's willing to drive thousands of kilometres and drop me off in the desert with a bicycle to fend for myself! George and I spent our second night in Namibia at Solitaire. There is a German baker that’s apple crumble is virtually its own food group and well known by all travellers in Namibia. I could also use the welding workshop to repair my trailer hitch. Which proved to be essential as I snapped both trailer hitches twice during this trip. I also had my first Namibian wildlife encounter here. Rocky being the fussy eater that he is. Left his porkchop in his bowl. It was 2 metres away from my tent when I heard some noise and thunk. - a jackal had come right into camp and stole his food. I just caught a glimpse of him with my headlamp as I reluctantly poked my head out the vestibule. Rocky also seemed a bit slow to get started and wouldn’t leave the comfort of the tent. I had to pack everything and leave him wrapped up in my sleeping bag until we finally hit the road. Rocky's left eye is prone to sunburn as there is no pigment in the skin. I nursed his eye as best as I could. I brought some prescription eye drops from home and would administer drops several times a day. We eventually found a solution that worked really well: when he was in his carrier he would allow me to cover his eye with duct tape but as soon as he was off the bike he would rip it off. As he spent several hours a day in his basket this solution definitely helped combat the sun's harmful rays and the dust from passing cars. Fortunately we had a good start to the day. Sublime gravel and a tail wind allowed us to quickly kill some kilometres. The Gaub Pass along the Naukluft Mountains is notorious for its sharp turns and steep drop-offs into the river below, making it a dangerous route where many accidents occur. While the road quality is decent, the hairpin bends can be treacherous, especially for those driving carelessly—one wrong move, and a vehicle could easily go over the edge. Needless to say, I had to push my way out of the valley. Along the way, Greg, a Polish gentleman working in Namibia, stopped to help. He refilled my water bottles and generously filled my basket with fruit, chocolates, and other snacks. He even offered me a lift to Solitaire, which I very nearly accepted. As I continued, I passed another sign for the Tropic of Capricorn. A group of road workers with a grader stopped to refill my bottles again. In return for the kindness I had received from strangers, I shared two of the oranges Greg had given me as a small token of appreciation. I met so many incredible people on the road, and their kindness was a welcome relief as the terrain was brutal. The half-graded roads, thick sand, and relentless corrugations slowed me to a crawl. It took six hours to cover the first 48 km. Those brief social interactions were a lifeline. I even had to turn down some offers of food and water because Rocky was such a hit with the tourists. I even met a local who shared the same name as him. At one point, I took an hour-long power nap in the dirt—I just didn't care anymore. My cycle top had turned into what felt like a Kevlar vest, and my legs were screaming at me. I’d lay out the footprint of my tent to try and make myself a bit more comfortable, using my towel draped over the bike for shade. But with the midday sun at its peak, I could only cover a small part of my face. I did my best to keep Rocky cool by letting him rest alongside my chest, his head on my shoulder. As I lay there, contemplating my fate in the desert, I watched little black dung beetles crawl past. Eventually, I reached Solitaire, greeted by six giraffes on the outskirts of the small tourist haven. Of course, Rocky stole the show. Busloads of tourists were eager to meet him—certainly not what they expected to find in the middle of the desert: a bike with a trailer, a crusty, salt-stained cyclist, and a dog happily perched on the handlebars. I made a beeline for the small shop, where I downed several cold drinks before indulging in a slice of their famous apple pie with a cup of coffee. Rocky's Ride Detailed Travel Log Day 6: 08/08/24 Solitaire - rest day Solitaire, a tiny settlement in the Namib Desert, is a charming and isolated stopover for travellers on the road to Sossusvlei. Despite its remote location, it offers a unique blend of rugged desert beauty and quirky charm. The settlement features a historic gas station, a general store, and a famous bakery known for its apple pie—a surprising treat in the middle of the desert. Rusting car wrecks scattered throughout add to the nostalgic, timeless feel of the place, making it a memorable rest stop for anyone seeking solitude in Namibia. I spent a day in Solitaire recovering from the harsh conditions of the road, reading, eating, and letting Rocky rest in the tent. One of the highlights was diving into ‘The Sheltering Desert’ by Henno Martin, a book I picked up at the Solitaire curio shop on my way through. The story of Henno, Henk, and their dog Otto, who survived in the desert while evading internment during World War II, resonated deeply with me. As I travelled through the same harsh landscapes, their struggles became all the more vivid. Their isolation, determination, and resourcefulness felt relatable as I navigated the desert’s challenges. Though my journey was not one of survival, living so close to the raw beauty and extreme conditions of the Namib gave me a new perspective on their incredible endurance. Every kilometre I cycled seemed to echo the hardships Henno and Henk must have faced, making my experience richer and more meaningful. Solitaire, a tiny outpost in the Namib Desert, offers a quirky mix of rugged beauty and charm. Known for its famous apple pie, rusting car wrecks, and nostalgic feel, it’s a memorable stop for those seeking solitude in Namibia.