Day 9 | Vwaza Marsh to Nyika National Park Distance: 74.3 km + 59.7 km (two GPS segments) | Terrain: Reserve tracks, tsetse fly gauntlet, climbing plateau Park fee: 17,000 kwacha | Bed/night: 15,000 kwacha | No cycling inside park | Hitch from Southern Gate with park ranger | No electricity, no Wi-Fi, bring your own food Cycling through Vwaza Marsh National Park was one of the most scenic and least forgiving sections of the route. The ride follows old jeep tracks beneath a dense tree canopy. The tsetse flies were relentless, to the point where riding felt like a race effort just to keep moving. They stopped almost immediately at the north gate. Taking a detour around the park is worth seriously considering if you're not planning to move fast. Eight hours on the bike. Three hours in a Land Cruiser, sunburn, and then at the end of it all a cold shower in the dark and popcorn for dinner. Makes you humble and incredibly grateful.