Day 4 | Ngala Lodge to Flame Tree Lodge Distance: 78.7 km | Terrain: Lakeshore tar, rolling Met two motorcyclists from the UK at Ngala, a couple travelling under the Instagram handle @kikirides. They've been on the road for over a year and have ridden through 26 African countries. At one point I held onto a passing motorbike for a short tow and a laugh, until the rider suddenly wanted 10,000 kwacha. I let go immediately. The first stretch was lush and green after the night's rain. Overcast skies, thick vegetation, and to my left the beautiful hills and dense forest of Kaningina Forest Reserve running parallel to the lake. Honestly one of the prettiest sections of the trip so far. Around 15 km in, I stopped at a roadside vendor selling giant mushrooms. Later, my first proper local meal: nsima, beans, greens, and tomato for 3,000 kwacha, about one dollar. Simple, filling, delicious. While eating, an artist named Sumba joined me and showed me his work. Got hammered by a rainstorm for about half an hour and ended up completely soaked. But the riding was brilliant. Smooth tar, lush scenery, easy elevation, everything felt fresh after the rain. Flame Tree Lodge sits in a genuinely beautiful spot right on Lake Malawi. Unfortunately the management doesn't match the location. No hot water, painfully slow service, pricing that feels optimistic. I was quoted 30,000 kwacha, pushed back to 20,000 due to no water, and they accepted. Worth stopping if you're tired and want a roof and lake views, but go in with realistic expectations.