Day 16 | Ekwendeni to Pakaya | Gee's Restaurant Distance: 98.1 km | Terrain: Back-road gravel shortcut, pine/bluegum forest, mixed gravel and descents This morning I took a back-road shortcut instead of sticking to the M1. On the map it saves about 10 km, but I'm not convinced it saves any actual time. A mix of steep hike-a-bike climbs and short rideable sections of rough dirt. With the weather cool and overcast, the soaked T-shirt felt refreshing. After about 50 km, just south of Elephant Rock, I took my first proper stop. Elephant Rock is a large rounded granite outcrop, weathered smooth over millions of years. From certain angles it really does look like an elephant lying down. Long stretches of man-made pine plantations and bluegum forest, cool and quiet. Almost no people. In the last 30 km I hadn't seen a single shop or place to buy water. Forestry land. The silence is remarkable. Pakaya Dream Paradise is signposted as a roadside trucker stop with Gee's Restaurant attached. I camped behind the restaurant under some good trees. The owner has big plans, turning it into an official camping area and eventually bringing in some wildlife. Already a solid stop for adventure cyclists. Dinner was chicken and chips, twice, at 10,000 kwacha per plate. Both were deserved.