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I woke up amongst the misty field that I set up camp last night. Early in the morning I went to the nearby convenience store to get my breakfast. I noticed it when drinking my latte. Two of the spokes on my rear wheel had snapped. That's why it'd gone a bit wobbly again. I was expecting a little loose one like last week, but snapped is a whole different story.
I checked my maps. No bike shops on my intended route for hundreds of kilometres.
Even then, the bike shops had very few reviews and I was unsure if they event existed anymore.
My only option was to cycle backwards, back to Wakkanai, where there was a promising looking bike shop.
I figured it's dangerous to ride on a wheel with broken spokes as you can possibly bend the wheel itself. So I took the shortest route possible through the mountains. This was actually a good move, because it meant the ride was different to yesterday. I saw lots and lots of deers! It was a little hilly, but nothing too crazy.
With the backwind on my side, I got to the repair shop at 10:30. I showed him the damages and went to get lunch. An hour and a half later, he was done. He charged me ¥12,000 (a little over $100) which is more than what the entire wheel set cost to buy. But, I didn't have any other options.
Because I got there so quickly, I decided to make the most of my day. I detoured south and took a different route back to the town I started. Because I'd left early and had the benefit of backwind in the first day, I essentially could double the ride that I did yesterday (yesterday I went from Wakkanai to this campsite, today I went from the campsite, to Wakkanai, back to the campsite).
The route I chose took my through some beautiful hayfield plains, with windmills in the background. Some parts were quite hilly and allowed me to climb up some deserted back roads and get some awesome views. One of my favourite views was at the top of a hill. I sat on the gras fields and looked in the distance where I sat Mt Rishiri (the one I climbed on the weekend) behind a line of windmills.
I made it to the campsite at 5pm, this time actually in time for the reception. This meant I could check in and chill at the onsen for as long as I wanted. But there's one thing I forgot to mention...
During my ride I heard a noise. 5km before the campsite I checked my wheel again...
Another spoke had broken.
That's right, I'm now in the exact same position I was this morning, just as far from the bike shop again, wheel wobbly again.
I had dinner at the restaurant and took and onsen to get my mind off it. The onsen had no rest area or place to charge my stuff, at a time when everything was dying, so that ruined that plan. But I did have a nice conversation with a guy who had heard my allergen requests at the restaurant and warned me about the wheat in my miso soup that they had served me. He had since seen me in the onsen and we had a chat.
I didn't know what to do from this point. Do I go back to Wakkanai? Do I need to order a new wheel online? Do I just take it as a sign and give up? I'm gonna sleep on it.
| By: | Lewis |
| Started in: | 猿払村, 北海, JP |
| Distance: | 111.6 km |
| Selected: | 111.6 km |
| Elevation: | + 777 / - 752 m |
| Moving Time: | 06:34:11 |
| Page Views: | 2 |
| Departed: | Aug 12, 2026, 7:11 am |
| Starts in: | 猿払村, 北海, JP |
| Distance: | 111.6 km |
| Selected distance: | 111.6 km |
| Elevation: | + 777 / - 752 m |
| Max Grade: | |
| Avg Grade | |
| Cat | |
| FIETS | |
| VAM | |
| Ascent time | |
| Descent time | |
| Total Duration: | 09:57:49 |
| Selection Duration: | 35869 |
| Moving Time: | 06:34:11 |
| Selection Moving Time: | 06:34:11 |
| Stopped Time: | 03:23:38 |
| Max Speed: | 55.7 kph |
| Avg Speed: | 17.0 kph |
| Pace: | 00:05:21 |
| Moving Pace: | 00:03:31 |
Best format for turn-by-turn directions on modern Garmin Edge Devices
Best format for turn by turn directions on Edge 500, 510. Will provide true turn by turn navigation on Edge 800, 810, 1000, Touring including custom cue entries. Great for training when we release those features. Not currently optimal for Virtual Partner.
Useful for uploading your activity to another service, keeping records on your own computer etc.
Useful for any GPS unit. Contains no cuesheet entries, only track information (breadcrumb trail). Will provide turn by turn directions (true navigation) on the Edge 705/800/810/1000/Touring, but will not have any custom cues. Works great for Mio Cyclo. Find GPS specific help in our help system.
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