We stopped in Gunzburg at about 11. It's a little off the trail, but there was a long blank area ahead of us on the map, so we figured we could just drop in and grab some food to take with us for lunch. "Drop" was the wrong verb. We pushed the bikes, gasping with every step, through the town gate and into a surprisingly lovely square. We bought sausages and cinnamon bread, ate the latter. We heard a band playing nearby. We found a wedding wrapping up just before noon. At noon, the loudest noon siren I have ever heard sounded three times. We saw two new birds while riding along the river: a Little Grebe and a Great Crested Grebe. Google the Great Crested Grebe for a pretty showy bird. While you're at it, take a look at the Beeeater and the Kingfisher (European) for some nice color. We saw those before. We're hoping to see a hoopoe. As we approached Hochstadt, we passed a giant strawberry. I called out to Michele that I would stop for a picture. Lisa exploded from the giant strawberry to talk to us. She's from Virginia. She met a German man online seven years ago; now they are married. Her strawberries are very good. She said that any she doesn't sell the day they are picked she will turn into jam. She said Germans insist on the freshest fruit. We reserved rooms at a penzione by telephone last night. The landlady speaks only German (and Greek, as it turns out). The communication was strained. We approached the penzione with some concern that the landlady had dismissed our effort as a crank call. The landlady still doesn't understand anything we say, and we understand nothing she says, but through body language and pointing, Frau Meier and Michele have become best friends! Frau Meier is Greek by birth and has been here for 56 years. She has some children, some or all of whom are in Australia. She has a cottage behind her house that might generously be called 2.5 bedroom, one bath. That is our shelter. Roy has the .5 bedroom; it's kind of an enclosed porch that opens into our bedroom. Then there's another real bedroom and a bed in the living area surrounded by a curtain. Frau Meier indicated to us to shower promptly because we might have four more roommates before bedtime. We're still alone, but we're holding our breath.