Up at 6am. Still no water. I plan to ride my bike-with-a-broken-spoke-which-tends-to-lead-to-another-one-breaking a straight 76km straight to Skopje - no side excursions en route. And that is what happens. I reach the Senigallia Hotel in Skopje at 11am. The receptionist speaks immaculate English, lets me check in early, organises to have the housekeeper do my laundry - and is generally as helpful as can be. I shower - and set off with my bike for BikeStop - about 2km away and recipient of many positive reviews. The propritor Llubisha speaks good English (he says call me Yubish), has a competent air, has more bikes than he can handle waiting to be services (surely a hopeful sign?), cannot do my bike today or tomorrow, but promises to have my bike done by Monday evening. It's a deal. The Senigallia Hotel is a faux boat on the south bank of the Vardar River. Across the river sits - in multi-columned and palisaded grandeur - the enormous Archaeological Museum of Macedonia. Built in 2014. One of several huge buildings in the classical style and mutliple statues rushed up in the last decade or so, in the hope of establishing North Macedonia's identity. They don't look as if they will age well. The dignified grand statues are all of men. Statues of women only feature as adornments - usually with ample lightly clad bosoms . . . . .