A steep climb out of Vrben village first thing in the morning woke our still-not-fully-recovered-from-yesterday legs. As we ascended - we caught glimpses of the village & valley below through the still clearing clouds. Up and over the brow of the hill - then scooting down the slope we had come up yesterday, today thankfully practically traffic free - down to Manrovo Lake. The hillside up from Manrovo Lake two to three deep in modern houses - looking like week-end or holiday homes and nearly all unoccupied. We had reserved one of these for the night - and passed by to drop off our panniers before setting off up another hill for the mountain village of Galičnik. The present occupiers were unfriendly. We tried to establish whether they would leave us the keys and understood them to say they were just about to pop out. 'At what will you be back?', we asked. 'Never' they responded firmly. Later we understood. In the meantime, our bikes suddenly a joy without panniers, we headed up a narrow but good mountain road that threaded through mixed beech and conifer forest, intermittent sunlight filtering through deligthfully - the occasional clearing giving us views seemingly far below of the Lake and Radika River valley that we would ride along tomorrow. Our steepest climb yet - some 6km mostly at 10-15% - but our lighter bikes, the sunlight, the absence of traffic, the bursts of sunlight, the views - and regular rests (at one layby we nearly stepped on a slow-moving 6" gold & black salamander(?) which stood still for a while then ambled unconcernedly or maybe because the sun had not yet fired its limbs) made the ride a pleasure. Up, up, up above the tree line, some shaded roadside banks still sheltering drifts of unmelted snow - and then onto flatter but still ondulating moorland - small plateaus harbouring large pools. Then down a shallowere decline into the much-lauded village of Galičnik. Spread out over several miles of hillsides (rather than clustered close like a Tuscan village) - the stone & wood tiled-roof houses looked lived-in. The church - big and recently-restored - less so. It had a somewhat unused feel to it. Magnificent views over the precipitous valley to Janche (to which there is a apparently a mountain pass. Andrew had wisely over-ruled my suggestion that we try to wheel our bikes there along it). So - to our eyes - not as charming as Vrben, but well-worth visiting not least for the rich highland landscapes & views on the way up & back. Back to Mountain Lodge - which turned out to have little hot water, no loo paper, no internet, dark rooms and threadbare towels & sheets. We showered and slipped out a few kilometres further south along the lake shore in the now-drizzling falling dusk to the crowded & bubbling lakeside Mavrovki Restaurant. Nearly all tables inside and out occupied - by family groups, by groups of men and by groups of women, as far as we could tell, all locals. Here & elsewhere in North Macedonia, other than in families - men and women seem to socialise separately - and men much more than women, who presumably mostly remain at home keeping house. Most of the adults were smoking, the music was loud - and everyone was talking & laughing. We complimented the owner (who spoke passable English). He responded 'it is like their second home'. We ordered Rakia, he recommended his home-made brew, served out of a plastic bottle eye-wateringly strong and good - our second and third glasses on the house. The rakia seemed to fuel our ride home - all the better as a village dog gave chase to Andrew, who suddenly moved at unprecedented speed . . . . . .