Left Newhalem CG in North Cascades via Hwy 20. Little traffic over all though small and irregular shoulders once I had gotten past Newhalem. I ran into 3 cross-country cyclists at a Marblemount expresso stand. Two of them (a couple like my age) had come up from Colorado, via Yellowstone and Missoula to avoid the dry high desert between the Rockies and the Cascades. They were like on day #24. Their daughter from W. Seattle had joined them in Mazama. I crossed the Skagit River at Marblemount and followed the Rockport-Cascade Road on the south side of the Skagit. Lovely. Quiet. Peaceful morning ride. However, SH 530 with narrow shoulders along Sauk R. into Darrington, was VERY busy with weekend (Sunday) traffic. Ate at Moe's in Darrington which I can highly recommend. Nice shaded tables on the lawn in back. Good food options. REAL espresso milk shake! South out of town on the Mtn. Loop Hwy was a dream of even grade and smooth tarmac. Just chuggin' along! That changes in 10 miles to nice enough gravel USFS road surface. Equally beautiful riding but the pitch changes irregularly and needing to be more vigilant for some holes and rocks. Came across an older man (from Darrington) sitting in a lawn chair at the Whitechuck Mtn overlook. He was just quietly enjoying the view and tranquil vibe. Maybe just anticipating the occasional passer by as he was quite chatty about a variety of things, including local lore. For example, the logging days, the participation by the Darrington old-timers including the matriarch of a logging family who I had cared for at SCCA. The USFS Bedal Campground on the Sauk was REALLY nice!