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The ride covered 37.7 km with 950 m of ascent and 940 m of descent, set along a rolling ridge-and-valley structure with a stepped climb south and a broken return across multiple interior ridgelines. Moving time totalled 2:16:58, with an ascent time of 1:23:05 and descent in 0:53:53. Gradients reached +19.6% on the steeper agricultural ramps and –24.2% on the sharper downhill sections. Maximum speed recorded was 53.9 km/h, averaging 16.1 km/h across mixed terrain including compact gravel farm roads, rocky shepherd tracks, weathered limestone surfaces, loose aggregate descents, and occasional tarmac link sections, with approximately 70% off-road. It was a stepped route, moving across a sequence of agricultural ridges and shallow valleys rather than following a single continuous climb — each rise revealing another fold of the Apokoronas landscape before the line eventually turns north again toward the sea.
The ride began in Kokkino Chorio, leaving the Glass Factory and climbing immediately onto the familiar tarmac ascent toward Drapanos. This opening section serves a simple purpose: it gains height quickly and places the rider onto the Drapanos plateau, the limestone shoulder that separates the coastal villages from the interior basin of Apokoronas.
From the plateau, the ride moves eastward toward the Xirosterni Road Junction, the scheduled 10:30 pick-up point. This section marks the transition from coastal terrain to the agricultural interior. The tarmac narrows and the surrounding landscape changes character. Olive groves begin to dominate the slopes, and the terrain starts to roll more noticeably as the plateau breaks into shallow valleys and minor ridgelines.
At Xirosterni, the route leaves the main road network and enters the gravel farm tracks that form the real working infrastructure of the Apokoronas hills. These tracks were never designed for leisure movement. They exist to reach fields, terraces, and shepherd grazing areas, and they climb accordingly — directly and without compromise.
The first off-road sections wind between olive terraces and small agricultural holdings, alternating between compact gravel surfaces and older stone-based farm roads that have been repaired and widened over the years. The track often appears gentle at first glance, but the gradient repeatedly increases as the route lifts into the low hill country west of Vrysses.
This area is characterised by short, steep agricultural ramps, many exceeding 16%, linking terraces built on successive contour lines. The climbs rarely last long, but they come repeatedly. Each rise leads to another fold in the terrain — another ridge, another small valley — creating a steady rhythm of climbing and descending that defines the middle section of the ride.
The surface conditions also change frequently. One moment, the bike rolls smoothly over well-compacted farm gravel, and the next, it crosses rough limestone patches where the bedrock has broken through the surface layer, leaving irregular stone shelves embedded in the track.
Eventually, the route tips downward and commits to the descent into Vrysses. The track widens slightly as it approaches the valley floor, revealing the green corridor of the Vrysses basin, where water and fertile soil have supported settlement and agriculture for centuries.
The Vrysses Cheese Shop makes a natural stopping point for coffee, cake, and a chat about the ride so far.
Vrysses has long functioned as a market village for the surrounding agricultural districts, particularly for dairy production linked to the upland grazing areas of the Lefka Ori.
Even today, the village sits at an important geographical junction, where roads from Apokoronas, Sfakia, and the White Mountains foothills converge. For riders, it provides water, coffee, and a brief pause before the return north.
After coffee, the route turns home through the interior hills. Leaving Vrysses, the ride turns north again and begins its second phase: a long sequence of interior agricultural tracks linking the valleys between Vamos and Drapanos.
This part of the ride reveals how densely connected the Apokoronas countryside once was. The tracks rarely run straight. Instead, they follow old agricultural boundaries, shepherd routes, and terrace lines, linking one small valley to the next. Climbs appear gradually rather than dramatically. The rider gains elevation in small increments, often without noticing until the next ridge opens a wider view across the olive country.
These routes are not modern recreational paths. They are the surviving framework of rural movement, connecting farms, grazing land, and villages long before the modern road network was built.
The same landscape played a quiet but important role during the German occupation of Crete (1941–1945).
While the German forces controlled the main coastal roads and administrative centres, the interior hills of Apokoronas remained threaded with minor tracks that were difficult to monitor continuously.
Villages such as Vamos, Xirosterni, and Vrysses formed part of a local support network used by resistance groups and couriers moving between coastal districts and the mountain bases in the Lefka Ori.
Movement along these routes rarely followed the obvious lines used by vehicles. Instead, guides relied on shepherd tracks, terrace paths, and agricultural connections that allowed individuals to move discreetly between settlements. Personnel of the British Special Operations Executive (SOE) working with Cretan resistance fighters frequently depended on these village networks for safe houses, food, and information when moving across the region.
Although much of this activity left little visible trace, the physical infrastructure remains. Many of the same tracks still exist today as gravel farm roads or rough access routes — the same ground now crossed by modern E-MTB riders.
As the ride continues north, the terrain begins to rise again toward the high ground above the north coast.
The climbs here are longer but more gradual than those encountered earlier. Olive terraces spread across the hillsides, broken occasionally by patches of woodland and scrub where the land becomes too steep for cultivation.
From several points along these ridges, the view opens westward across the Apokoronas basin, while the northern horizon gradually reveals the blue line of the Cretan Sea.
The return to Kokkino Chorio begins with a descent known locally among riders as Bastard Hill. The name reflects the character of the slope. The descent starts deceptively gently before tightening into steeper gravel pitches where braking control becomes essential. Loose aggregate sits over a harder base, demanding steady handling rather than speed.
From here, the route drops into Tony’s Gully, a narrower corridor where the track cuts through thicker vegetation, and the terrain becomes more technical. The line then reaches the distinctive Church in the Rock single track, a short but memorable section where the route threads through limestone outcrops and tight vegetation.
After this, the trail flows into the familiar sequence known as the Roller Coaster — a series of quick rises and dips that carry the rider across the final ridge above the coast.
The ride finishes through Aspro Tracks, a fast gravel descent that opens occasional views toward Souda Bay and the Akrotiri peninsula, before returning to Kokkino Chorio they is the ascent of Four Hills Climb and completing the loop.
Closing Reflection
The ride crosses a landscape that has been used in much the same way for centuries. The tracks linking the villages of Apokoronas were created for practical movement — livestock, agriculture, and communication between settlements. In different periods, those same routes have served different purposes: farming access, village transport, resistance movement, and now off-road exploration.
The terrain itself has not changed. What changes is how people move through it.
Today, the network remains visible in the form of gravel farm roads, shepherd tracks, and terrace paths. For riders, they form one of the most extensive off-road systems in north-west Crete, connecting the coastal villages with the foothills of the Lefka Ori.
It is a landscape built for movement — and the ride follows those lines exactly as they were intended to be used.
| By: | Alan E-MTBCRETE |
| Started in: | Κρήτη, GR |
| Distance: | 37.7 km |
| Selected: | 37.7 km |
| Elevation: | + 959 / - 950 m |
| Moving Time: | 02:16:54 |
| Page Views: | 12 |
| Departed: | Mar 12, 2026, 10:02 am |
| Starts in: | Κρήτη, GR |
| Distance: | 37.7 km |
| Selected distance: | 37.7 km |
| Elevation: | + 959 / - 950 m |
| Max Grade: | |
| Avg Grade | |
| Cat | |
| FIETS | |
| VAM | |
| Ascent time | |
| Descent time | |
| Total Duration: | 03:08:35 |
| Selection Duration: | 11315 |
| Moving Time: | 02:16:54 |
| Selection Moving Time: | 02:16:54 |
| Stopped Time: | 00:51:41 |
| Calories: | 738 |
| Max Watts: | |
| Avg Watts: | 90 |
| WR Power | |
| Work | |
| Max Speed: | 53.9 kph |
| Avg Speed: | 16.5 kph |
| Pace: | 00:05:00 |
| Moving Pace: | 00:03:37 |
Best format for turn-by-turn directions on modern Garmin Edge Devices
Best format for turn by turn directions on Edge 500, 510. Will provide true turn by turn navigation on Edge 800, 810, 1000, Touring including custom cue entries. Great for training when we release those features. Not currently optimal for Virtual Partner.
Useful for uploading your activity to another service, keeping records on your own computer etc.
Useful for any GPS unit. Contains no cuesheet entries, only track information (breadcrumb trail). Will provide turn by turn directions (true navigation) on the Edge 705/800/810/1000/Touring, but will not have any custom cues. Works great for Mio Cyclo. Find GPS specific help in our help system.
Estimated Time shows a prediction of how long it would take you to ride a given route. This number is based on your recent riding history, and represents an estimate of moving time. Each time you upload a new ride, your Estimated Time profile will adjust to reflect your most recent riding. Only rides exceeding 10 miles (16 km) will affect these estimates.
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